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SPACER Home > Bioelectronics > Rife-Bare Devices > Rife Bare Tech Notes > Construction and Position Notes
 

Construction and Position Notes

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Got my (big) rack finished. I have not reached the stage yet where I need to make it portable. I am sure I will need to experiment at home with the thing for a while first, anyway. I was taking positional considerations and stacking of equipment into account when I built it, though, so it should not be a problem. The shelves are of varying sizes, 16, 14, 12 " high (minus allowance for framing) and all about 2' wide. Shelves are composed of slats which can have cooling fans mounted blowing up (or down).

This was pretty easy construction and it's flexible since the 1x2 slats are attached to 2x2 framing with finishing nails and can be easily removed to provide even more access to the bottom of instruments. If I were building a small box (like a 12-16" cube) to hold the equipment, I would use the same technique since it is light enough and very strong with great ventilation.

I have a few questions for both of you based on the posts from the last couple of days. The construction manual is at my father's house and I have not looked at it lately (but will tomorrow), so if I am asking any questions that are addressed in the book, just tell me.

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The equipment I have so far:

949, 912 Wavetech function generator (model 288 I think) Galaxy (Palomar) 225 Uniden 510 Pro XL Astron 35M 2 18' coax 2 plastic Radio Shack 3" 12VDC fans Radio Shack multimeter (with freq counter)

The following's on order:

30" interconnect cable from Left Coast that they forgot to send with the original order 24-28" leaded (thick) glass 80/20 argon/neon, 10 torre from Allred Neon.

After reading Monroe's advice, I will trade my Radio Shack fans in and get 3 or 4 Left Coast ones. 

Still needed:

Tube clamps (I don't know if they will come with the  tube or not) 1/4 or 1/2" Braided wire for tube ? Ground strap wire ? BNC stuff to connect CB to func generator On/Off switch to replace mike switch Heat sink for CB transistor 3 or 4 Left Coast fans RF line chokes (ferrite data line filters) from RS Double male PL259 connector from RS 

2 10W resistors to replace 2W resistors in 225

------ Questions -------- After reading Monroe's advice, I will return my Radio Shack fans and get 3 or 4 Left Coast ones. Wouldn't a 4 or 5" fan be better for the top of the amp heat sink than the 3", though?

Jim said to use the 3/16" Radio Shack grounding strap to wrap the tube (plus as a grounding strap between boxes, and it is a braid, I assume.) Could I get better results from using 1/2 to 1/4" instead (assuming he's saying 3/16 since it is easily available at RS and not because of impedence matching)?

Jim says to take the bottom cover off the 912 and connect it to the 949 via a PL259 connector. Does this work as well as connecting it with the 18' cable and putting it far away? Does the 912 get hot, too? (I would think you would want the 912 far away from the device, in the field where one might sit, so it would balance it better and result in lower SWRs.)

Do y'all not include the freq generator or power supply in your grounding loop?

 

Monroe 

- You mount your tube inside a PVC pipe? Is this just to protect the thing or do you do it for safety reasons (like to shield UV)?

- Do you use a balun? It is not mentioned in any of your notes.

- You said you move your power supply as far away as possible from the rest of the equipment and 3-4' in the air if possible. The wires from the power supply to the fans are 3' long, so it cannot be more than 3' away. Is this correct?

- You have your function generator near you to change frequencies conveniently, and the rest of the equipment farther away. I take it you leave the tube sitting on top of the box with your antenna, CB, and amp. The 12' BNC cable is the one going from the func generator to the CB. 

- You said you use plastic coated grounding cable to ground your components. I take it you are not using the same wire to wrap your tube since it must be bare against the glass, correct?

- Great advice on how to drill out to attach the fan to the heat sink fins on the amp. Wouldn't a 4 or 5" fan be better for the amp heat sink fins than the 3", though?

- When you list these parts, I take it that this is the cable used to connect the function generator and CB and it is necessary in addition to the 2 18' cables:

2 Female BNC connectors 1 BNC cable 1 Duel male Bannana plug jack to plug into the Ramsey's output jacks get a red colored, It looks like just a extention jack plug, it has holes in the end of it that other bannana plug jacks plug into, okay one. 12 feet BNC shielded cable with male connectors on both ends

 

Fred

Comment - "Heavy" traditionally means "stable" as far as power supplies go since large inductors (and caps) smooth out any glitches. I doubt this application requires millivolt precision, though, so I am sure the PC30 is fine, and it may be as or more accurate than any heavy power supply, for all I know.

- In one drawing below, you show the CB on top of the amp and the other, vice versa (and your web page shows another configuration.) Is the CB supposed to be on top of the amp?

- You have the equipment rack nearby when you run, and the tube and balun farther away, correct? Since the braided wire running to the tube is not shielded it would seem that it would get more interference than Monroe's setup where he puts his func generator near himself and the rest of the equipment farther away since there is a shielded cable to the func generator. True?

- I take it you get better results using a short coax (9-10") between the CB and the amp. Does this mean you only use one 18' coax in your system?

 

------------ Construction and Position Notes -----------

----------- Fred (fredw@mks.com) ------------

>From turf@gelac.mar.lmco.com Tue Jan 6 10:35:28 1998 >From the first read through, it seems like you are >saying that you have the equipment actually piled >on top of each other. Is this true?

Yes. Someday I plan on putting boards between the components and attaching the components to the boards (so that I can more easily move the device), but I haven't done that yet.

One thing I left out of my article is grounding the components together. Once I'm done playing with the arrangement I'm going to ground the CB to the lin. amp. to the antenna tuner. I've found that, in the past, grounding is necessary. But with all the equipment touching each other (except for the Ramsey and the PS, because the antenna tuner/Ramsey have rubber feet), I don't need to do anything special to ground the equipment together.

fred

>But, I ended up making a wood one out of 2x2s (frame) and 1x2s >(slats for shelves). 18x24x42", 4 shelves. Painted it flat black and >it looks pretty good.

I have one comment here.

I've found that, for my device, the best SWR that I can get is dependent on the equipment layout. With proper equipment layout, I've been able to get 1.1 SWR for frequencies from 304 Hz to 2182 Hz. It didn't last because I went and adjusted the position of the wires to the tube (to try and get more of the tube to light up), but I can now reliably get around 1.2 SWR for this frequency range.

So you my end up not using your shelf (it is better to get a low SWR and reduce the risk of damaging your equipment).

Here is my current layout:

----- |fan| ----- ---------- -lin.amp.- ---------- ---- -CB- ---- ----------- - MFJ-949E- ----------- ----------- -Ramsey - ----------- - PS - -----------

Everything is currently sitting in one big pile, but I'm planning on building a wood frame to hold everything in place, so it is easier to carry around. (Which is why I want a PC-30 power supply - it is much lighter than my Pyramid PS-36).

Why is it that people are still buying the heavier power supplies, when a light power supply is available? Is there something wrong with the PC-30 that I should be aware of?

NOTE: the components layout really matters!!!! If I had the PS to the right of the rest of the components, then my SWR was higher. If I had the PS to the left of the components, then my SWR was *alot* higher. Your optimum layout for your components may be different than my optimum layout for my components.

The coax output from the CB is lined up, directly below the coax input in the linear amplifier, and I have the shortest section of coax that I could make (that takes into account the bending radius of the coax cable) connecting the two. I think this is around 9 or 10 inches in length.

The coax output from the lin. amp. is lined up, directly above the coax input in the antenna tuner, and I have the shortest section of coax that I could make (that takes into account the bending radius of the coax cable) connecting the two. Again, this is around 9 or 10 inches in length.

I have an 18' long section of coax coming out of one of the COAX outputs on the antenna tuner. I picked the one that was farthest away from the both of the short coax wires. I have the 18' coax go straight back for a foot or two before I run it to my kitchen table (about 12' away), where it connects to the MFJ-912 external balun.

The coax cables do not overlap. A crude diagram of the back of my setup, where "|" indicates coax cable, and "O" indicates a coax cable jack:

{Drawing already edited per later post to fix incorrect original. This one is correct}

--------- | O O| linear amplifier --- |--|- | | ----|- | |CB O| | ------ | | -------|- |O O| antenna tuner -|------- | | | | | | -|- |O|external balun ---

The short cables are RG58 with crimp-on connectors. I plan, when I have time, to replace these with RG8 with soldered-on connectors.

My power cords to the linear amplifier and the CB are rolled up and tied with twist ties. They are only long enough to reach the power supply outputs. I tried to route them so that they are away from the coax cables.

My power cords to the Ramsey and the MFJ-949E have had RF chokes put on them, near to where the plug into the back of the relevant piece of equipment.

Note that with the tube so far away from the rest of the components, I've found that I can't get as much of it to light up. IE. the clamps (in my case, loops of 1/2" wide flat braided copper wire) have to be closer. In my case, the loops are around 6" or 7" apart. I feel that not exposing myself to that intense headache-causing RF when I go near the equipment (to adjust frequency/etc) is worth it, especially since I still seem to be seeing effects.

>I have a couple of 3" plastic 12VDC boxer-type fans that I plan to use >on the amp - one blowing down onto the heat sinks on top and one >blowing into the bottom of the (bottom-plate-removed) amp.

I recommend that you take 5-10 minutes breaks every 20 minutes or so, to let your equipment cool down. With low SWRs, my amp (with a fan on it) doesn't get warm. (However, my amp is about 1/2 as strong as the Palomar 225).

>Is it recommended to mount cooling fans on anything else? >Should I blow a fan on the tube or CB?

You could put a heatsink onto the heat-generating power transistor at the back right of the Uniden CB. I did that. After 20 minutes of operation, the heatsink feels warm/hot to the touch. Back when I didn't have a heatsink on it, the entire case would feel quite hot to the touch after 20 minutes of operation - however, back then, my SWRs were noticably higher as well... so I don't know if a heatsink is required if you are able to get the SWRs down to 1.2 or less.

I'll probably be putting a fan on my CB heatsink as well.

After 20 minutes, at a SWR of 1.2, my tube (6 torre pressure, 1" diameter, 90% argon/10% neon) is warm between the clamps/loops, and hot underneath the clamps/loops. (The clamps/loops are hot.) I don't know if putting a fan close enough to the tube to have a cooling effect is a good idea - will the RF damage the fan? Will the magnetic field of the fan be detrimental to the "Rife" effect?

>Does the tube typically only rest in a wood cradle or are clamps necessary?

I bought neon-tube holders (little plastic spring-loaded thingies) from my local neon-tube guy. Your local neon-tube guy should have some as well (otherwise, how does he/she mount tubes to things?)

fred

-------------Monroe -------------

Howdy Brian hey can I help you build it? send me list of your goodies you got again, all your parts that your building your unit out of. in this letter is some stuff that will apply and some of it wont apply to your unit, okay

okay here is what I have. astron 35M power supply, PC-30 power supply. 3 of the Palomar 225, 2 of the CB radios that Left coast sells. MFJ-962D and MFJ-949e antenna tuners. 1 Roberts Bubble tube 100 percent argon, 1 tube 90/10 mix at 7mm pressure.

Oh yeah hey Brian, send me the stuff on this new way to wrap this tube your getting and Dr. Bare told me that Alred was using some thicker glass than Robert in NM was using...see if you can find out what kind of glass, it is...most tubes use 25mm which everone calls a one inch tube.

Brian the old car commericals used to say... ask the man who owns one.

I sure would like to help you build your unit...you of course doing all the work yourself....I would just give you the instructions / guildlines that I have used in building mine...on Jim's video, you see equipment spread out all over the place, and on Don Tunneys webpage you see where he has reduced it down to a small package, that breaks down and fits in a briefcase for airline travel...its good for those guys, they spend alot of time in planes going places...I wanted a unit that I could transport anywhere LOCALLY IN MY CAR, my goal was to make a 'grab and go' unit, if I needed to take it someplace I could leave on a moments notice...and let me tell you...it doesnt take too many times of taking apart your unit, packing it up, hauling it across the city / state to make you appreciate having a 'grab and go' unit....I have done that one time to many...been there and done that...its just takes too long..I have reduced my unit to basically 3 parts. the tube holder the unit itself powersupply and well the 3 ring notebook binder that HAS YOUR FREQUENCY LIST inside of it

I want to help you make THE BEST POSSIBLE UNIT that you can make...its my way of helping you for helping me, by your providing the frequency list...its one thing I can do to HELP YOU....besides, no sense in re-inventing the wheel over again..cause if there is a way to blow something up...I have done it...now dont get scared with that statement..ha ha....thats just how it goes in destructive testing, okay...like when they crash cars to see how the bumpers and airbags work...only by doing it do they learn...anyway...moving on...

what I ended up with last week is what I call what looks like 007 JAMES BOND RIFE/BARE RAY BEAM UNIT

heck, Brian everyone who has see it in person says it really looks professional built looking...( you should of seen some of my earlier versions..ha ha and yes, they all worked too!) I have just been refining THE LOOK of the unit, without sacrificing any of the functionality of it, okay...it use to be one large unit, right out of Dr Bares video...one really big piece of furniture...now its only 12 inchs tall, 12 inchs wide and 12 inch deep, from front to back...and it kicks critters inside you back to the stone age...

now I got the Ideal from Don Tunney, and changed it some to fit my needs. He shows you pictures of his but wont tell you the exact details of everything, that way you have to buy his unit...I know because I asked... Dont get me wrong, Don Tunney and Dr Jim Bare helped me BIG TIME when I was in a real fix with my unit, it would not work...it as a learning curve..(yeah I bet this story REALLY instills CONFIDENCE in you with me..ha ha...dont worry, everything is fine and works GREAT now! I just wanted to make it plain that I could not of gotten to this point with out their help, but there are somethings they wont tell you about making a portable unit, well their portable unit at least!... I was worried about RF coupling and started large and in stages shrunk my equipment down to what it is today...I could probably shrink it a inch or two more here and there but I am happy with what it has become today...a heck of a lot of design and engineering went into it making it what it is today...and besides I know your probably gonna want to show off your unit...and no since in having on look like what mine and others use to look like...now you can build a unit that not only works great but looks great also....cause all the units I have seen...well...have that 'homemade' un-professional look to them....and I have been guilty of that myself...heck fire, Brian I wanted mine to look like a piece of hospital equipment, all painted nice and clean white painted unit....it worked...it just still came out looking homemade tho..no matter what I did to it...got to thinking about it, spent alot of brain time on this and came up with the answer....here's the short version...Paint it black! everything... the radio is black, the astron is 'kinda black' the faceplate on the Palomar 225 is black, the antenna tuners are black...tv sets are black, VCR's are black, the nations top premier spyplane the SR-71 Blackbird is BLACK,The goverment spend over 1 million dollars on researching a paint that would survive Mach 3+ speeds, and found that painting over the shiney chrome color, painting it black it plane flew 50 degrees cooler, just because it was painted black...Black paint not only soaks up heat it gets rid it of the fastest also.... the Stealth Fighter is black, there are black projects. Don Tunneys unit is black, women look great in that little black dress, James Bond looks great in a Black tux...and the ramsey is 'almost black' kind of a yucky grey color....more on that later...right now you need a functional unit...thats the bottom line...and you probably want to to put it together as fast as you can....and thats okay, its YOUR unit...and you can do whatever you want, its a free country....(just trying to cover my rear here and not sound pushy okay, Brian!) .and what you put together will reflect upon you later, as you show it off...(been there, done that...I just dont want you to make the same mistakes okay...just trying to watchout for you and help you!)

okay I have got 2 rife ray beam units...if I had to pick only having one I would chose to 007 version, it actually looks better, and a good looking piece of equipment goes a long ways in getting some one to believe you and how crediable you are...they hear the words but are looking at the actual unit, that says more to them than anything...(that's a LONG been there and done that story!..ha ha)

Like I said I have 2 working units, and have built and rebuilt them over and over and over again...each time reducing it in size..I was concerned with the RF coupling and what I call 'shorting out the Bare wave'...Jim and me have had some long talks about that...I have found what works and what doesnt...most people only focus on what works, I learned more by finding out what didnt work and why....hey its just me, my nature of finding out things....I am a researcher, its what I do..okay...and were NOT gonna talk about that....

Now what I do diffently than what Don Tunney does is when you look at his portable unit he has equipment sitting right on top of the Ramsey Frequency generator..NOT the MFJ-949e unit...well I got sick and tired of getting sick and tired of having to get up off a comfortable couch/chair to walk across the room to change the frequencies...and you will get tired of it too...thinking there has got to be a better way... there is...and its an offical Dr. James Bare approved update also...why people dont do it, I dont know...in the units I have seen, no one does it...why...my guess is because they dont look at the modification update pages on his website or they saw someone built one a certain way and wanted something that they knew worked....kind the monkey see, monkey do...kind of thing.... then there are those of us who push the outside the envelope..ha ha

and your one of those kind of people in my book, cause you got your frequency list out there for all to see...Oh by the way I know several doctors that have your list and are using it...how do I know this, cause I gave it to them, they put in plastic page protectors in a 3 ring note book binder...just like I did...monkey see, monkey do...again...

okay on Dr. James Bare (Jim from now on!) modification update webpages. he talks about instead of (or addition to) the nuts and bolts approach mounted to the microphone, he installed a coax cable connector, I thinks its called a BNC connector, On one of my units, I was so scared of messing up, I was new at it!...that I did the directions just like Jim said...drilled and installed screws an nuts on the mic itself...on his update page he puts a BNC connector on the mic...I left the screws on the mic and just installed a FEMALE BNC connector (get it at radio shack) to the back side of the microphone...I just cut out little knob that holds the mic into a clip and drilled out the hole and installed it there... this mic mod is not on the 007 unit, I did away entirely with the micrphone, just a female BNC jack and a ON/OFF switch...looks a heck of alot better than a rubber band wrapped around the micphone, keeping the transmit button pushed in (yeah I got that on one unit too!) on my 2 units one looks like what Jim says the other looks like it was used in a James Bond movie.... they both work...when asked people like the look of the 007 unit...more on that later...right now you just need a working unit, okay...I kind of get off track sometimes.

when you open up the microhone, there are 2 wires going to the mic element. those are the ones you want to attach your screws/nuts to or BNC connector..one is white, one is yellow...

Yellow wire is + positive

Keep that in mind!

oh yeah SUPER IMPORTANT

your grounding strap cables...THIS IS THE SECRET to making it work!

from CB to Palomar 225 12 inchs long

from CB to antenna tuner 36 inchs long

from MFJ-912 to antenna tuner 12 inchs long

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I dont know about the new tube wrapping your talking about but I got this from Don and I use it on my tubes...I dont have the high pressure tubes...so send that information to me okay...

From the point that the grounding strap cable leaves the tube and is headed towards the antenna tuner connections it must be 36 inchs long

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SOLDER ALL CONNECTIONS....doesnt matter what it is, solder it! RF travels on the surface of wire, not thru it like regular electricity!

I used larger grounding strap cables 3/8 inch instead of the little stuff Radio Shack sells...every one else is using the radio shack grounding strap cables, 3 bucks a package of 10 feet. get 3 you will need 2 but I find I need 3 cause I make really good grounds, its a personal thing, besides after 100 hour, you will have to re-wrap your tube anyway..if you get any ORANGE GLOWING SPOTS on the grounding strap cable...immediately shut it down...check the spot it was at for heat....if its hot...UH OH...it can burn a hole thru your tube...been there done that...re-wrap it..or..light it back, once lite, reduce power to the tube...if it goes away your safe...the orange spot is a place of resistance to the RF and it gets hot, just like the electrical resistance heaters people use to heat their homes. okay

all grounding strap cables MUST be covered in plastic tubing...OR you can learn the hard way what RF burns feel like! and blow up your equipment at the same time. (been there, done that!)

oh yeah why install a Female BNC connetor? So you can buy a 12 foot BNC shielded cable from radio shack and change your freqs from across the room, sitting down....thats why!

so you need

2 Female BNC connectors 1 BNC cable 1 Duel male Bannana plug jack to plug into the Ramsey's output jacks get a red colored, It looks like just a extention jack plug, it has holes in the end of it that other bannana plug jacks plug into, okay one. 12 feet BNC shielded cable with male connectors on both ends Drill a hole in the bannana plug jack, BEFORE you install the Female BNC connector, solder a short piece of RED wire to the center conductor, cause if you try to solder after you install the the BNC connector into the bannana plug jack you will be making another trip to radio shack to buy another one...been there and done that too..ha ha....see you get to learn from MY MISTAKES..HA HA

Install the female BNC connetor in the bannnana plug jack, then look in the holes in the end, where you could plug other bannana plug jacks and that is where the screws are that tighten the wire connections, just back out the red screw and strip the other end of isulation...uh you do this before you install the BNC connector into the bannana plug jack...slip the bare wire under the screw and tighted it down...also do the same for the GROUND wire...I just wrapped a copper wire around the BNC ground and stuck it in the ground BLACK on bottom plug... okay this is why you get a RED bannana plug dual jack, because you take a BLACK MAGIC MARKED and color 1/2 of the dual bannana plug jack black, you color code it...you can do that to a red one, not a black one! then you you got a quick way to connect and disconnect your unit. even if you dont haul your unit all over town..ha ha

oh yeah while at Radio shack get this a miminum of one but better to have 3 of them

DATA LINE FERRITE FILTERS, they look like a little black plastic box thatyou wrap the Ramseys power line cord thru as many times as you can, then shut it, and tape it or ty wrap closed, I use Scotch 3M super 88 tape, it works in all weather, hot or cold doesnt unravel like the bargain big 49 cent tape does!, it your unit, you want to be proud of your work..cause people will say...YOU BUILT THAT! trust me..it happens...the more professional looking your unit looks the better YOU LOOK!!! the tape is really optional okay install it within 3 inchs or less where it enters the back of the ramsey freq generator unit, okay...then bunch up, wrap up the excess of your Ramsey power cable cord, like you found it, with a twist tie (like on bread, or tape or ty wrap it...you want to keep that bundle of wire as short as you can from the plug in the wall transformer to the bundle to the data line filter...it acts like an antenna and picks up RF an introduces into the Ramsey...Symptoms...are the Ramsey display goes out, it still puts out freqs but the digital display goes totally blank...not good in my book...took awhile to figure this one out, Don and Jim now both recommend the use of the ferrite data line filers on just about everything even the 12 volt power line feeds, if your using a PC-30 with the 9 foot extention... the other 2 ones install it on the coax cable near the end that attaches to the bannana plug jack/BNC connector and the other one right before the wires go into the CB itself, right before the screw in connector... I just plug the Ramsey transformer into a surge protection power strip and just use the power strip to turn the Ramsey off/on...CAUSE the Ramsey on/off know is also the millivolts setting knob oh on the data line ferrite filters dont be surprised to find that they get hot...

Set the Ramseys freq to 727 turn knob to 244 millivolt output put your M1700 digital multimeter on 2 volts scale, AC to set it OKAY why 244 millivolts?...cause testing has shown that its output changes as you move up and down the freq range its suppose to be between 200 and 250...I found 244 will keep it below 250 millivolts when it gets in that range and about 208 millivolts when you get into that freq range that make it drop to that low millivolts out put...just set it up like this, then forget about it and dont worry about it...its works this way.

OH bill and hillary were talking about operations and "I" need to focus on the actually physical building layout of the unit.

Oh yeah, heck we didnt talk about one of the second bigest headaches yet! PROPER WIRE LENGTHS...well there is some difference of opinion on that. Jim says make all wires from all the components 36 inchs long, measure from the point the wire leaves the unit, Don says to make all wires 60 inchs long (5 feet)...me I use a combination of both... yeah I am not much help to you here on this one..ha ha Look I have done it both ways, okay...and this wire length thing is really critical, to your unit working correctly...I messed up in this area and it took me 6 weeks to get my unit back and up running correctly... SO DONT BILL AND HILLARY THIS!!!

so what do you do...go 36 inchs or 60 inchs...well I can tell you what I did, okay...and this works for me...

CB power cord, Palomar 225 60 inchs long all fans are 36 inchs long (why cause at the time I was building this one unit, I was using 36 inchs and it worked so I left it alone!) Jim says to use 36 inchs, so go with that, he belives there are more problems with having longer cables...I went thru that phase and glad I got it behind me now!

Oh on the Palomar 225, you need to replace the wire with a bigger thicker wire, go to 10 size wire.

The Ramsey should be on its own power supply. Driving it off the Astron will cause problems. this from Don

okay we need to get on to the Physical layout Jim shows on the video a cart and also on a table..at one point

let me tell you this, if you dont have the equipment laid out just right..all you end up with is one expensive purple /pink light blub that does do a bill and hillary thing! so propert eqipment placement is CRITICAL for getting a rife wave out of the unit. been there done that and didnt learn that lesson an I went back for more learning..ha ha

okay quick and easy and it works, I know my unit use to be laid out like this

Tube in its own seperate piece of equipment clam shell design PVC tube sits on top ===============================

CB Palomar 225 MFJ 949e

======= wooded 24 inchs long===== thats it! NEAT and simple and takes up alot of room! the astron 35M sat as far away as I could make the wires reach, which was not very far!

REAL IMPORTANT STUFF keep your Astron OFF of the ground at least 3 feet high off of the ground, 4 is better...why? cause it grounds the Rife wave and all you get is pretty little light... I hauled my unit 300 miles ONE WAY to learn that lesson...there I just saved you 600 miles and weekend of frustration and embaressment!...ha ha yeah I can laugh about it now...it sure wasnt funny then at the time tho..

before you go and cut wires on your microphone Brian, make a drawing of it is wiring layout..cause you dont get a schematic that comes with radio... uh...also when your modifing the mic...TOSS OUT, REMOVE, DESTROY the actually microhone element itself... why?, cause if someone ever has the feds on you, in court they can say it could be simply converted back into a cb that is running a linear on it and a $10,000 dollar fine plus jail time could be slapped on you...

Remember your building a ISM device, not transmitting intelligent information, okay... lable the side of the Palomar 225

ISM device For Industrial, Scientific and Medical use only!!!

ISM ratings are different and keeping that little microphone element around is not worth it, besides you never end up using it anyway...your better off without it! Trust me on this one, you do not want to find out the hard way!

right now!

maybe just keeping is simple would be good for your first time, but I got confidence in you that you can build a really good looking unit, one that does not look homemade...more like something you see store bought, okay.

my 007 unit (dang that sounds cheezy!) is a stacked unit.

its those long CB coax cables that get in the way an also if they are not laid out just right, to interact just right...again all you got is a purple light that doesnt do bill and hillary.

Okay tube holder

for 10 bucks you can buy yourself a 10 piece of 3 inch PVC pipe that you gotta cut length way in half to make a clam shell design...get brass hinges for it, they dont interfer with RF. get cheap hinges I use 2 dollar kind, you get 4 hinges in a pack, good for making 2 tube holders. dont trust the screws that come with them to do anything...you got yourself a 75 dollar tube, so dont trust it to cheap screws. when you buy your hinges, find some nuts and bolts that fit in the holes, 3/4 inch will do it, get a new drill bit too for them, it makes for a nice clean hole, if you do it right, you wont need the nuts, cause the pvc pipe will hold it secure...(or so you will think....uh dont make that mistake also..ha ha...use the nuts to hold it down tight!)

get 2 ends caps also, when you install the hinges, put them on the end caps cause the gap they create when the unit is open you can run the plastic tubing covered grounding strap cables thru that gap, it looks good too!. if you dont get the end caps, you wont get the gap when its opened up...learned the hard way...

wind long CB coax cables in 12 inch diameter form how get carboard, use ruler, at 6 inch mark, make a circle, cut it out, lay it on top of another piece of cardboard, do it again and again, you will have a form when you stack them, and you can then use it for wrapping the coil around it, if you leave the card board in, paint it black, then it looks nice, spray paint, one coat will do the trick, it keeps your coil nice an neat looking also...(I just want it to work Monroe, I dont give a bill and hillary on what it looks like!)...well maybe now, but later you will...

for 007 version and this is cool in alot of ways too...one is you dont have cables hanging out all over the place, its out of the way laying on top of the antenna tuner...a BIG IMPROVEMENT in the way it looks and also it keeps its round shape there.... Brian I went thur all sorts of problems getting the CB cables set up just right...you dont want to go there...

I use this coax cable set up on BOTH of my units now an yes the swr are low. oh, when you first start out, the swr are high till you run it for several hours (sometimes) then they start to drop...why?...I dont know...I also have seen a house soak up the energy so none of it got across the room to me...yeah ran it 15 hours that time...Jim has run across this also...uh we dont talk about it much, cause its kind of spooky....we wont talk about this now either, maybe later, needless to say it was an old home in my family for more than 4 generations...It just soaked the energy up like a sponge on more than one occaasion...one time running beam for 12 hours...a second time 15 hours...weird heck this whole rife raybeam stuff is weird to most people, till they understand it...people fear what they dont understand.

back ot 007 rife Ray beam unit

tube holder

======================== wood 12 inchs long

Fan Fan mounted on CB to blow air over external CB Heat sink get it from radio shack

fan fan mounted on top of Palomar 225 Palomar 225 ======================== wood 12 inchs long supports weight of 225 (small air gap)

CB cables

MFJ antenna tuner Doesnt matter which MFJ antenna tuner it is!

======================== wood (again)

 

Open MFJ antenna tuner and CAREFULLY drill some holes in it to mount it to wood. no weight is to be on top of 

******************************************************************

more stuff

============================================================

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 23:56:12 -0700 (MST) From: James Bare <rifetech@Rt66.com To: ".signatureo" <lem56104@Bayou.UH.EDU Subject: Re: New software

Monroe,

No stress on that plexi cover! Will fracture for sure, and they aren't available any more. But I do have a spare steel lid if you need it.

Howdy Jim on mouning 225 to 949e, this version of my portable is using the plexiglass cover, I could drill and mount it to that but I dont think the plexiglass nor the thin sheet metal could stand the weight and stress I give a unit..ha ha

CB 225 949e

====================== wood=================

(fan on top of CB, near the back over heat sink) CB

(fan on top of 225) 225 ===================== wood ========= ( takes weigh off of 949 cabinet)

949e

===================== wood ===============

look at PC 30 see the slots for mounting it down with screws?

put 2 screws on out side of wooden frame, then one screw on top...for transporting, PC-30 is mounted and locked down to the side of the unit.

got alumimun angle brackets at hardware store drill and mount to sides of Ramsey (using its own black screws) and put screws on the side of the wood frame...use a 1/4 screw with wingnut to scure it down. The screw threads will face out from the wood frame to mount the Ramsey, they will face in to mount the PC-30. or you can just face them both in, but thats alot of trouble for me (yeah right, like it takes 20 seconds or less to do!) cut groves/slots in angle bracket just like on PC 30 and it will also be able to be mounted to the frame for transport...

I use 3 inch long screws to hold the wood together drill the hole first with a 1/8 drill bit, made installin the screws much easier

PVC tube holder and mounting bracket (not mounted to frame) sits on top of frame (one piece) its not permantly attached, cause I might want to switch tubes.

========================== R ! CB ! a ! on/off ! m ! switch ! P s ! 225 ! C e !========================! y ! coax cables lay on top ! 30 ! ! ! MFJ-949e ! ! ! !========================! 12 inchs wide and 12 inchs tall 12 inchs deep, to the back

(cause I got a whole bill and hillary load of wire and cable back there! 1/2 plywood is used for bottom. 1/2 inch wood used for sides, use whatever scrap you have on hand. Spray pain it all black!

The MFJ antenna tuner box is just for only holding the woodend frame striaght up and down, vertically, not for any load carrying weight. the only weight it has on it is the weight of the coax cables, so thats nothing!

Brian you will be using a metal case it so less of a problem to you.

the 225 sits almost against the left side of the unit, you will have to sight your to the proper distance, okay

Rubber feet that mount with screw thru them is a nice professional touch, keeps the furniture from being scratched also, that keeps people happy, its a small touch, but a nice one! Ramsey and PC-30 DETACH from frame in operation I like to have my Ramsey frequency generator sitting close by, and not have to go back and forth from the couch to change the frequencies.

912 is attached directly to the back of the 949e with 90 degree elbow joint connector...

This works OK, but the 90* bend will cause some units problems. Just putting a straight connector instead of the 90 will add a good 5 watts.

(Brian I use to have this striaght connector , and along time ago Jim suggested going with the 90 degree elbow...so new things are always comming up...will I go with the striaght connector...NO...what I got works and its portable also.) also 225 is positioned so if you look down thru the rows of heat sink fins, you see that the 912 is just barely behind 2 fins, this lets cooling air flowing off from the 225 to do double duty, it cools the 912 at the same time (neat trick...well at least I thought so!) 912 can not be directly behind 225 because, the 225 has to have some room to screw in the coax cables, you know... could of put CB where on/off transmit switch is BUT it interfers with being too close to the 912, and coax has to come out of CB, I did not want a sharp bend in the coax, RF hates short turns and bends.

Mounting parts to wood frame elimates a metal to metal contact that might bill and hillary up the equipment if it was mounted to metal to metal, causing RF grounding problems, dont know for certain if this would happen I am just avoiding trouble ahead of time... Fan mounted by drilling holes in 225 heat sink fin, ty-wrap the fan to the 225 and it NEVER comes off again, also being directly mounted to it with no risers/spacers all cooling air is forced into the heat sink fins/channels...drill from the middle going towards the sides, cause your gonna chew up a heat sink fin and it might as well be one that is covered up by the body of the fan, you want to look good you know..ha ha having the fan mounted directly to the Palomar 225 heatsink is better than no risers/spacers cause all cooling air is forced into the heat sink fins/channels...drill from the middle going towards the sides, cause your gonna chew up a heat sink fin next to the one you want to drill a hole in, drill a small hole but big enough for a ty-wrap to fit thru, remember your drilling sideways NOT down into the unit....the fan covers it so it doesnt show...you only need a hole big enough for a ty-wrap....most people have LARGE TY WRAPS spend 3 bucks, get some small skinny ty-wraps, they fit thru smaller holes.

Rife Bare unit is reduced to 3 Major parts

PVC tube holder Frame with all the RF componets 3 Ring notebook binder with Frequency Lists plus various extension cords and power strips, spark ignitor (bar b que lighter)

Everything fits inside a Rubbermaid dirty/clean clothes carrier, toss a blanket on top and let it lay over the sides and avoid questions and delays and nosey neighbors. taking the wash out, no big deal!

Just don't toss it in the washer!

No one questions you carrying a basket full of clothes at an apt complex...ha ha

As long as it isn't glowing no one will notice.:-)

It works for me!

I could mount a U-tube and elimante the PVC tube holder..BUT number 1, I dont have a U-tube, I am rough on my equipment, and it travels alot. My needs are to have a 'grab and go' set up and not have to mess with taking it apart everytime I trasport to it to another location...it fits perfectly on bucket seats in a automoblie. For Plane travel...well thats another set up and thats been done already.

Happy New Year to you and Lori. May it be a good one for you both. It's about midnight now and I can hear people shooting off guns. Think I'll lay low for a while till all the bullets come back down.

Jim

***** Brian you may or may not need to to make a bar b que spark ignitor IT DEPENDS on how hard your tube lights up...for example on my 949e with external 912 I can light up Roberts 100 percent 7mm pressure bubble tube...if I use the 962D antenna tuner, its a little harder and longer to light up, it still lights up, it just takes a few more seconds...the spark ingnitor just makes it easier and faster. put the tip of the spark ignitoer on one metal clamp the new wire you added touchs the glass. have your unit turned on and transmitting, fire the spark and you got ignition, the tube lights up.. adjust swr's as necessary...

if so, its easy, get one of those propane lighters that is used to light up a fire place the kind that has the red and white handle with some black metal wrapped around the end remove the metal, you find a bare wire was touching under the metal, solder a wire to this wire and make your new added on wire go to reach the end tip...uh oh yeah, drain out all of the propane in the lighter okay, BEFORE you do any soldering yeah I give good instructions...uh...just some of it is out of place..ha ha step B before safety step A....

*** Brian Hey I just noticed that some of the words are not spelled correctly as I thought of them at the time...guess I the computer needs a spelling checker program I know netscape 4 pro has one I never use it...heck I cant now if I wanted to...only on with Z term and lucky to be using that at all..ha ha

on cooling the Palomar 225 remove the bottom cover, it maybe plastic or metal, it just acts like an oven to keep heat in..

OH bill and hillary I almost forgot, there is a capicator your gonna have to replace, it gets hot and blows up on everybody I I can look it up, it will take me awhile, it will be quicker if you drop a line to Left coast or call them and ask which one it is that needs to be replaced, THEY know the one...

maybe if you have 2 fans one on top and one underneath it might keep it from blowing, but I would replace it anyway...heck its 75 cents. oh...get the replacement from a electronics supply place NOT a radio shack..their capicators are never to specs...they have the widest range possible so they dont have to stock specific parts.

I know there is some stuff I left off but I gotta go spent alittle over 4 hours typing this to you...

uh..you ever get a longer letter?

oh the guy who is mentioned in your newest freq list update...you know where it says proofed and corrected it has some Doctor's address on it is that guy still alive and how does he know all of these freqs?

I was caustious of using that new list at first....try a few freqs and bill and hillary if it didnt work out...so I use it some more now...I trust it better...just thought you would like to know

heck its almost 3 pm I gotta go

check back with you later okay

I mounted my 225 on 2 strips or rails of wood 1 inch times 1 inch 1x1 so the bottom would be open for air to get inside it..and drilled holes in the side so the hot air that rises can escape thru the sides of the heatsink, 1/4 inch holes about every 1/4 inch, works good...better than nothing and if you have fan it helps even more...

let me know what your palomar 225 looks like if its the one with the wires all in it or the one with the switchs solder to the circuit board itself. I got both, and modified both also the color of the instruction faceplate...the color lets you know who built it! Palomar farmed out their work

oh yeah...( you will get alot of these from me..ha ha) the screws that hold down the heat producing transistors, they put heat sink compoound on the bottom of the RF power transsitors but dont put any on the screws...I removed the screws, one at a time, put heat sink compound on the threads and under the head, then re-installed them....it makes the screw carry more heat away from the power transistor...how much more...heck I dont know, but every little bit helps..

maybe you should not do this one or wait...I have done it to all of mine tho...225 inside up front near the switchs are 2 large resistors they are 2 watt versions....they get hot....one of my blew...I replacede them both with 10 watt versions...same ohms tho...it gets rid of the heat better...

hope this arrives to you in time to help you out in making your first unit

oh yeah on 007 unit I removed the mic and just black taped all the wire got a 10 amp (way over kill) DPDT switch to replace the transmit switch, put it on a metal bracket, its says ON/OFF in big letters (thats why I bought it!) and it looks good, attached a cable with a BNC connector that the 12 cable hooks up to and it works fine.

more later...let me know what you need.

Mounted alumimuin L brackets to side of Ramsey and drilled slots in it, it can hang on the side of the wood held down by a 1/4 screw and wing nut...

oh yeah take the screws out of your 912 terminals go get 3 inch long ones and 2 of them, take one of the ones from the 912 and use it to replace the grounding one on the antenna tuner, get stop nuts for all 3 of them you will be glad you did this 3 dollar modifications, cause they come loose alot!

get some washers also while your there, small ones to slip up under the metal plates on the Palomar 225, you move it out away from the body about 1/8 inch it creates a gap hot air can escape from.... on 225 that the switchs are solder to the body, just install the washers on the rear section, okay

talk to you later

Monroe in Houston, TEXAS

Monroe & Lori in Houston, TEXAS

lem56104@bayou.uh.edu

On Fri, 2 Jan 1998, Brian McInturff wrote:

Hey Monroe -

Got the BRG parts either on order or in. Waiting for the balun from Left Coast and the tube from Allred - talked to him over the holidays - ordered a 10mm 80/20 bubble tube leaded glass. He includes instructions to wrap it a new way to make it easy to light. I'm making a equipment rack this weekend to hold it all. I'll let you know how it goes - and probably ask some questions. I will be resubscribing to the rife list next week.

turf

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Howdy Monroe

Almost finished the rack and it is heavy duty with 4 shelves made of slats of wood, about 42" high, and should easily handle all the equipment. Not light, but since it is on casters and the shelves are slats, I could tie all the boxes down to the shelves and wheel it up a ramp into a van to transport it. I got the flat black paint for it and tomorrow it will be applied. The slats will allow cooling fans to be mounted below the equipment and blow up, as I was instructed to do by the folks at Left Coast to the amp, as well as blow a fan down onto the heat sink. as well as blow a fan down onto the heat sink. Does any other equipment besides the amp need to be cooled with fans?

Left Coast forgot to supply the patch cable for the antenna, so I called about that today. Do I need clamps for the tube? Or just set it in a cradle? I know I need some 1/8 or 1/4" braid from Radio Shack to wrap the tube but I figured I would wait until I got it to see what Barry Allred says to wrap it with.

turf

BRIAN IT TOO DANG BIG!!! you gotta have a van to haul it alround...its TOO DANG BIG!!!

HEY..I WANT * YOU * TO HAVE A SUPER COOLING LOOKING UNIT!!!

okay no more hollering at the moment..go to Bare's webpage...take the link to Don Tunney's units that he sells....see the ones that some other guy sorry I can remember his name, who also has a link on Bare's website. he sells small sized ones also...these units work!!!

The video Jim Bare did was old stuff, even he will tell you that himself...he still uses it for some who are scared about building it at all...they can see everything easily...

Now your smarter than the average guy I think so I know you can make a smaller unit...heck mine large one fits on the seat of the car...and now my 007 unit fits perfectly on bucket seats...and the dang thing works!!! it will blast critters back to the stone age...its small it doesnt take up much space.. there is no reason for you to make a BIG UNIT...I can promise you it wont work any better...

now both my units are portable, one uses the PC-30 with the 9 feet long extra 12 volt power cord that Jim Bare said to use..it works great..okay yeah I know, you dont have a PC-30 so lets blow that off for now

you got a big heavy ASTRON 35M...HEY I GOT THE EXACT SAME MODEL as YOU

so I know what I am talking about...Hey I am watching out for YOU I dont want you to waste time making the same stupid mistakes I did okay..thats whats friends are for...he help one another you help me with cool frequnecy lists that work...I help you build a SMALL PORTABLE UNIT that will kill off the critters you set the freq for, okay

uh...wait a second....uh...sorry Brian I forgot something your using a computer for your frequncey generator, you need a big cart for it....sorry for fussing at you...okay

THINK....THINK....THINK.....THINK

THINKING

hey...you can still make a smaller unit...it will show people that THEY can make a small one too...monkey see monkey do...they just wont have a computer running it besides it really is lighter to haul around

here are some more notes on it I sent to someone else Now I send the to you, okay....

oh yeah you need a fan to cool the power transistor on the back of the CB..get the Heat sink at Radio Shack its black, has 4 rows of fins on it and get some of the heat sink compound also okay, also at radio shack if you dont have an extra fan you can buy a small 12 volt fan at radio shack to mount on the CB to blow cool air over the heat sink

 

!---------! ! fan ! ----! !---- ! !---------! ! ! ! ! CB ! ! ! !-----------------! 

mount 12 volt cooling fan on CB, let half of fan hang off of CB radio, mount the fan so it blows air over the heat sink fins...drill holes under the side of the fan that is on the CB section, let it blow some cooling air inside their too!

Just go to town on your hole drilling..go crazy drill lots of holes, use nuts, and bolts to mount fan to the CB...

that will cool down your CB really good...I drilled holes on both sides of my CB in the back 1/2 so if you see it the metal looks smooth, the part that shows..the parts that does not show...uh...thats another story...most who have seen it ask did I shoot it with a shotgun....I DRILLED LOTS OF HOLES ha ha...MY UNIT RUNS COOL!

dont over do it when you first run it...only a few minutes per freq..okay...I almost put myself in the hospital over doing at the beginning....I am guy, I'm stud, I'm a athelete ..hey dont let these thoughts get into your mind...this thing works EVERYTIME you turn it on...expect to get sick remember that then go slow and drink water like its going out of style, okay big 32 ounce glasses 2 to 3 of them at a time..I do and it helps and yeah I got go whizz alot too...expect it to stink also if you are really killing off something, thats normal so dont worry... just dont go in the bathroom soon after someone else has who has had some beam time..ha ha okay

hey have you see Bill Chub's freq list...looks like yours exactly with a few modifications....

the good stuff!...hey you dont have to think about doing this 007 unit, I already did all the design work on it, it works great, no RF problems...nothing...its all been done...

AND...YOU CAN DO IT TOO!

I just wanted a small as possible unit to haul around...so I used my MFJ 949e antenna tuner, the MFJ 962D will do it also, cause it is the one that I did my orginal testing of the design...just on a larger scale, I reduced it down little by little... Okay the 949e antenna tuner is just used for keeping the frame striaght I put it on a piece of plywood, set back the front edge of it 1 1/4 inch back from the edge of the plywood

============== 949e ! !-- ! <-- Knobs stick further out on the front, you know -- ! ! ============== --------------------------- PLYWOOD BASE ! ! ---------------------------

!<--1 1/4---! INCHS

IF I WAS DO DO IT AGAIN,I might make this a 1 1/2 inch to 2 inchs just for some extra clearance, cause when I set it on the car seat, my mode of transportation for the unit, I wanted the bottom part of the plywood to keep the knobs away from the seat upholstery, didnt need it to punch holes in it, or bend knobs from pressure laying against it....just in case, you know...I wanted it as small as possible tho also, 1 1/4 inch seem okay, just next time, well I have to make that space larger because the MFJ 962D knobs stick out further from the front of the unit....hope this drawing make this clear.

okay I use the long CB cables, now on this one I do use one short CB cable, cause I had it. On my MFJ 962D unit, I use 2 of the long CB coax cables, so that configuration has been tested to, so not worry...I have been there and done that...and will do it again...IT WORKS..so dont worry. Just have the 2 long cables lay on top of each other and that they both have signal flow thru them the same direction...okay so what the heck does that mean? Signal comes from the CB to the Palomar 225, so lets say that coax cable is wound in a 12 inch circle clockwise...well do the same thing on the cable that leaves the Palomar 225 and goes into the MFJ Antenna Tuner in the same direction, clockwise...it acts like a air core transformer...It took me along time to find the right cable placement, okay..and this setup works so dont mess with it...and yeah, when you put the wood sides on the it, the round cable shape will change slightly, to a oval...dont worry it will work, just trying to cover all the details that people might ask, you know...ONLY the weight of the cables is what rests on top of the antenna tuner, nothing else...the weight of the cables wont do anything to the lid of the antenna tuner...now wind your cables and lay one on top of the other, doesnt matter when one is on top of the other one, okay....then wrap the cables with BLACK electrical tape...personally I use Scotch 3M Super 88 tape, why? Cause its the good stuff, it lasts, it stays wrapped and sticks to it self, not like that bill and hillary electrical tape that wont work for you in the 49 Cent special bin...well its your unit....you get what you pay for...people look at the construction of your unit and will judge you buy it....spend the 3 or 4 bucks and get 2 rolls of the good electrical tape, okay. Now measure how tall your wrapped cables stand, oh yeah...wrap each set of coax cables seperatly with electrical tape....ONLY the front 1/2 circle together, thats the part that shows towards the front...why only the front half...cause its what I did, I didnt wrap the entire thing, maybe I should of, But I didnt...so there...it worked and I left it at that. Okay measure how high the cables are above the lid of the antenna tuner...that is the distance of the bottom of your next shelf level, okay

 

========================================

second level shelf that 225 sits on wood ======================================== <------------------------------- ( height of CB coax cables CB Coax cables wound and taped ) ---------------------------------------- <-------------------------------- ! MFJ Antenna tuner ! You can use 949e or 962D ! it works with either one! ! I know, I have done BOTH ---------------------------------------- - Monroe in Houston, TEXAS ======================================== 1/2 inch Plywood Base ! Carefully drill and mount your ! MFJ antenna tuner to this base ! ======================================== 1-1 <--- Rubber feet Mount on ALL 4 corners

DONT SCRATCH FURNITURE..USE RUBBER FEET (Uh...been there, done that) Dont do that!...uh... Do this mod, Okay!

Now, NOT SHOWN is the vertical side pieces of wood that is RIGHT NEXT to the sides of the MFJ antenna tuner box, the antenna tuner box is used for the frame, just to hold them vertically.

Drill and install 3 inch (or longer if you wish) screws from the Plywood bottom up into the wood frame on the sides. I use 1/8 inch drill bit and matching sized screws.

 

Birds eye view, over head

--------------!_______________________!------------- 1x1 inch wood --------------! !------------- goes all the way ! _______ ! across, not shown ! ! Fan ! ! in drawing its ( open ! !_______! ! ( open one piece of  to air ! ! to air wood, Okay! area ) ! Palomar 225 ! area ) ! ! --------------!_______________________!------------- 1x1 inch wood ----------------------------------------------------

You can use bigger than 1x1 if you want, I used it cause I had it on hand, okay!

Set Fan on top of Palomar to postion it RIGHT ON TOP of the heat producing power transistors, okay...use a pen, pencil, crayon...something to mark the mounting holes in the fans frame, okay Drill at this spot at an angle from the middle of the Palomar 225 towards towards the sides and yeah its gonna chew up the heat sink fin next to it Count on it...Dont worry, that bill and hillary looking chewed up heat sink fin will be covered over with the nice looking fan...see just like bill and hillary do, cover up the bad looking stuff...it works for them and her is an application it can work for you! Trust me you will get more good out of your Rife/Bare Ray Beam than you will get from them..ha ha

Now if your using the fans from Left Coast (and you should, they are more immune to RF that the ones from Radio Shack and the fans from Left Coast Radio are cheaper!...NO I dont have any affliation with them, I dont make a buck recommending them, okay...I just have tried other Radio Shack fans and spend 6 weeks of hair pulling to get them to work! So use the cooling fans that you get from Rich & Cindy at Left Coast Radio...heck, ask long as your talking to them, tell them Monroe said to tell them "Howdy"..heck it cant hurt!)

Okay next shelf level - The TOP where the PVC clam shell tube holder sits

=============================================== ------------- <---CB Mounting Bracket 1 ! Fan ! 1 <---- (that cools the heatsink mounted on the back of 1 ======= 1 CB) 1___________1 1 CB Radio 1 ____________

fan Palomar 225

Tired of trying to do the drawings by keyboard cause THEY SURE ARE NOT TO SCALE!!!! When you lay out the parts, and build it by hand it will all fit into place and there are somethings that you may swap out or do just alittle different than I did. For instance.... I have one unit that feeds the frequencies into the CB by way of the Microphone Just like in Jim's book on the modifications page using a BNC coax cable monted to the back side of the microhone and I run a 12 foot long shielded coax cable (from Radio Shack) to the Ramsey Frequency generator. Now on a tottally different unit that I built, the microphone is totally removed and just the wiring harness (wrapped in black electrical tape, OF COURSE!) then goes to a DPDT switch with a cable attached to it....now before you think..ohhh I dont wont to do that...well, guess what THE MAN himself, Dr.James Bare built this cable...on my unit. ...SO THERE..ITS APPROVED!!! now dont go bugging him to make you one, its a long story....Just rest assured it works....So on the 007 Unit...I have an angle bracket that a hole is drilled in and the switch mounts on it...it works, it looks cool and sexy!...and painted FLAT BLACK...of course!

I also mounted Angle Brackets on the sides of the Ramsey freq generator to mount / hang the Ramsey on the wooden sides, just for transporting it..and it works great...Ramsey on one side and PC-30 on the other side... if you use a Astron power supply, DONT try to hang it on the side...its just too Dang heavy!...just carry it seperately out to the automobile when you go to transport your unit to a different location.

Paint the entire wood frame before you mount all your parts FLAT BLACK why wood? cause it wont interfer with the RF signals...someone may make it out of metal, and make ti work for them.... I have not done that...I used wood, cause I was concerned about all the grounding cables that needed to be done. I didnt want any ground loop problems.

Hope this helps!

I kind of wrote this to be put on the list but it needs to be cleaned up and merged with the other letter I sent so it would make better sense, you know.

What do you thing? any mods you can think of...I thought about putting EXACT measurements, cause when I was first building equipment I wanted the EXACT measurements...since ever one uses the same equipment, it would always come out the same...but you know if at least people paint them black, its at least one thing I have done to influence people to make a better (looking) / working unit at least!...

I told Jim and Don we need to have a Rife Ray Beam photo contest, so people can see what others have done and everyone one wins by seeing how each person made his unit and they all can take home with them the best ideals to inprove their own units....for the public to accept these devices, they are going to have to look better and more professional, not the look of some mad scientist creation.... of course in a photo contest, they all HAVE TO WORK... then you got best looking, largest, smallest, most out landish, craziest, most thought provoking, most thrift-full or imaginative comming up with scrounging the parts or doing it the most yourself... anyway the point being every one leaves with some ideals that they can use to incorporate into their own design...but its has to put out rife waves...and no extra crap on it, like flowers or plants, stuff like that..it has to be functional...maybe a contest like this may not last long, because I think with all the people adding their units to be displayed on the internet, that collectively (shades of star trek's the borg!) we could assumulate each others ideals an we could come up with a really great small compact unit....now there are different versions of compact...Jim and Don's version that fits in a briefcase and you take it on a plane to do run at a distance location...my...my needs are a bit more local, I just wanted a "Grab N GO" unit....My earlier MUCH LARGER designs took up the back end of a Ford Explorer truck....my present unit is small enought to sit on the front seat if need be, (yeah I know buckle it down or put it in the back seat on the floor) well I usally do carry in the back, but the point being its small enought to fit in the smallest of cars...it doesnt take a large van to haul it around... Different units require differnent means to transport them... also maybe a catagory for a unit that has pushed the technology the furtherest in the short amount of time that Dr. James Bare has brought it back to the cutting edge...and a cutting edge unit also.... You see there are so many different ways to go with this R/B ray beam and I think we should..or rather better start sharing it more on our consctuctions tips and techniques.... This may not be accepted because now people are selling units and each has his own personal touch and trade secrets that he does not want to give out nor share freely....some will and some wont.... well I will share my tips, so thats a start! I figure someone out there has some webpage space and would like to help get this out and like some hits on their web pages.... this needs to be put up on the list...cause there IS more than one way to build this Rife Bare Ray Beam and make it work! Thanks to Dr. James Bare he built the model T and people run with it from there and HOT ROD it..ha ha!!!

Yeah, Monroe is ALWAYS pushing the envelope. Hey all that destructive testing is starting to pay off....learning what works and what does not...ha ha

TAKE CARE

Monroe in Houston, TEXAS

 

Monroe & Lori in Houston, TEXAS

lem56104@bayou.uh.edu

I thought about doing that, scanning photos, it make take awhile tho.. to happen...heck if even people JUST paint their units FLAT BLACK then I have done something to influence the units construction for the better...cause everyone builds it them self, so constructions vary!

*** Brian, hey dont forget to get the glass specs from Barry alread, the thickness, leaded, unleaded okay everything you can about the tube...thanks

and send me the wrapping instructions too

Your Friend

Monroe in Houston, TEXAS

**** Brian I used REAL neon sign tubing holders

YOU dont have to...go to Ralph Hartman's site look at how he made a do-it-yourself neon tube holder

I dont think you need to cut it down like he did tho, okay...its your call on that one..I HAVE seen a unit that the guy did not cut down the PVC pipe "T" section....uh..wait a minute..thats guys unit didnt work...well for get him...it was something else wrong with his set up... not the fault of the tube holder, his was all messed up and he did not want any help to make his unit work... anyway, sorry got side tracked... So go ahead and use the PVC "T" section of pipe to hold the tube it fits just right and hey if you go to Ralph's site...drop a line to him to mail me back okay..thanks I am still waiting to hear from him

OH YEAH...I got a note at my log on that the university computer system will down all day saturday...so no mail from me on sat okay... keep me up to date on how your unit is comming...I am all excited for YOU finally having one yourself.... Talked to JIM BARE about putting a link to your page...he said he would. just one of the things he has to do...

keep in touch

6 48 am now gotta go

Monroe & Lori in Houston, TEXAS

lem56104@bayou.uh.edu

-------------------------

------------ Jim (rifetech@Rt66.com) ----------

Take the bottom off the 912, use a double male PL259 connector from Radio Shack to attach it to the 949. The 225Palomar will need the bottom removed and a small fan placed to blow over the output transformer. Thing gets so hot parts will drop off it and the pc board otherwise.

> Does the tube typically only rest in a wood > cradle or are clamps necessary? 

Just rest the tube in a "U" shapped cradle. Use the 3/16 grounding strap from Radio Shack to wrap the tube. Remove the speaker from the CB so air can circulate. The output transistor is at the rear of the CB and this are will get really hot. Spill some air from the fans onto it. 

------------------ Fred --------------------

>From fredw@mks.com Wed Jan 7 15:52:10 1998

>From turf@gelac.mar.lmco.com Wed Jan 7 12:24:46 1998 >Got my (big) rack finished. I have not reached the stage yet where I >need to make it portable. I am sure I will need to experiment at home >with the thing for a while before I go on tour, anyway :).

You may want to move it around your house; having it portable makes this a lot easier. I store mine in the corner of my living room. When I use it I carry the cart to the center of my living room. Then I have to play with things (the 18' coax cable that I have running from my antenna tuner to the MFJ912 has to go to the right side, not the left side, if I want SWR in the 1.2 range). When I make a portable case, all these things will be fixed in place, so that I never again have to play with them.

>30" interconnect cable from Left Coast that they > forgot to send with the original order

You might also want to get a couple of short (10" or 1" cables) so that, once you have it working, you can experiment to try and get the best SWR.

>After reading Monroe's advice, I will trade my Radio >Shack fans in and get 3 or 4 Left Coast ones. 

You want a 5" fan on the linear amplifier. You might want to put a fan blowing on the heatsink of the power supply. I'm going to be doing this, as my power supply heatsink gets too hot to touch after 20-30 minutes of operation.

You might want to try 115VAC fans, to lessen the load on the power supply.

>Tube clamps (I don't know if they will come with the tube or not)

Tube clamps are just normal stainless steel hose clamps, from a hardware store. You might want to make loops out of 1/2" wide flat braided wire; if you do, make them snug, but still loose enough so that the glass has room to expand when it gets hot.

Whichever you do, you may want to consider trying to solder the 3/16" or 1/4" inch wide flat braided wire to the clamps/loops. It is a pain to try and adjust the clamp position when it is holding the wire, as the wire keeps slipping out from underneath the clamp (in my experience).

>Ground strap wire ?

Yes. You could use coax cable, just pull out the center conductor.

>Wouldn't a 4 or 5" fan be better for the top of the amp heat sink >than the 3", though?

Yes.

>Jim said to use the 3/16" Radio Shack grounding strap to wrap the tube >(plus as a grounding strap between boxes, and it is a braid, I >assume.) Could I get better results from using 1/2 to 1/4" instead >(assuming he's saying 3/16 since it is easily available at RS and not >because of impedence matching)?

I don't know; but I'm using 1/4" wide flat braided wire to run from my MFJ912 to the clamps/loops on my tube.

Since you are using a MFJ912, try to light the tube just using the clamps. (See my tube 'wrapping' method on my web-site.) If the clamps are close enough together (but never let them touch!) then the tube should light. after a few minutes (of the tube warming up) you can turn the device off, move the clamps a bit further apart, and the tube will light with the clamps further apart. (In my experience, that is.)

>Jim says to take the bottom cover off the 912 and connect it to the 949 >via a PL259 connector. Does this work as well as connecting it with >the 18' cable and putting it far away?

Doing it this way allows you to get more of the tube to light. IE. I can start the tube, when it is cold, with my clamps/loops 14" apart. However, whenever you get close to your equipment to adjust anything, you are also close to the tube.

With the 18' cable between the antenna tuner and the MFJ912, I need to put the clamps around 2" to 4" apart to get the tube to light. And I can only get the clamps up to around 6" to 8" apart, once the tube is warm. However, I'm no longer being exposed to that intense RF field from the tube when I get close to my equipment. (My equipment is still putting off a RF field, that bothers me, but it takes a lot longer.)

>Does the 912 get hot, too?

Very.

>Do y'all not include the freq generator or power supply in your >grounding loop?

I don't. I seem to recall being told to not include the power supply. In theory, you want this ground to be an earth ground.

I suppose I could ground the case of my Ramsey.

I use coax cable, with the center conductor pulled out (so all I have is the braid and the plastic outer coating), for my grounding cables.

>Comment - "Heavy" traditionally means "stable" as far as power supplies >go since large inductors (and caps) smooth out any glitches. I doubt >this application requires millivolt precision, though, so I am sure the >PC30 is fine, and it may be as or more accurate than any heavy power >supply, for all I know.

The PC30 is meant for charging batteries. Here are some comments that I got back on it:

One person said:

:Have a PC-30 Less than 1 hr use. I found it would not hold a steady :voltage 12.5 to 16.5. The manf. said it needs a 750+ amp hr battery hooked :to it.

Another person said:

:My experience has been that every :switching power supply I have come in contact with - all suffer from bad RF :feed back problems. Don seems to have solved this. With a couple of RF :chokes on the lines, my unit will go to about 6000 Hz. Above that the wave :causes havoc in the power supply.

Another person said:

:I use PC 30 and they work excellent as long as you use a 6 (10 ga) :foot power cord between the PC30 and RB device.

So... I'm going to think some more about whether or not I really want a PC-30.

>- In one drawing below, you show the CB on top of the amp and the >other, vice versa (and your web page shows another configuration.) >Is the CB supposed to be on top of the amp?

Opps. The second drawing was wrong. I currently have my CB underneath my linear amplifier. You wouldn't want it on top, because the heat from the linear amplifier would rise into it.

>- You have the equipment rack nearby when you run, and the tube and >balun farther away, correct?

Yes.

>Since the braided wire running to the tube is not shielded it would seem >that it would get more interference

Huh? The braided wire running from the MFJ912 to the tube is only about 10" or 12" long.

>- I take it you get better results using a short coax (9-10") between >the CB and the amp. Does this mean you only use one 18' coax in your >system?

Yes.

Please change my second drawing to:

--------- | O O| linear amplifier --- |--|- | | ----|- | |CB O| | ------ | | -------|- |O O| antenna tuner -|------- | | | | | | -|- |O|external balun ---

>its an offical Dr. James Bare approved update >also...why people dont do it, I dont know...in the units I have seen, >no one does it...why...my guess is because they dont look at the >modification update pages on his website

The modification that you mentioned isn't actually on the update pages. (I just looked and didn't see it.)

>on the 007 unit, I did away entirely with the micrphone, just a female >BNC jack and a ON/OFF switch...

Why not just have a cable directly from your CB to the audio frequency generator, and use the switch on the CB?

>generator unit, okay...then bunch up, wrap up the excess of your Ramsey >power cable cord, like you found it, with a twist tie (like on bread, >or tape or ty wrap it

It probably doesn't matter in this case, but it is probably a good idea to avoid twist-ties, because the metal loop could get hot (from the RF). I had this happen with a twist-tie that I had around the one 18' coax cable, back when I was using an 18' cable between my lin. amp. and my antenna tuner. You can see the discoloration on the plastic on the cable, from where it got really hot.

>Set the Ramseys freq to 727 turn knob to 244 millivolt output put your >M1700 digital multimeter on 2 volts scale, AC to set it OKAY why 244 >millivolts?...cause testing has shown that its output changes as you >move up and down the freq range

My Ramsey's voltage varies, but only by around 5 millivolts (last time I checked), not 50 like Monroe's Ramsey.

>its suppose to be between 200 and 250...

I thought it was supposed to be around 200 millivolts.

>CB power cord, Palomar 225 60 inchs long

Mine are around 3'. (When I say "around" I mean within 4 or 5 inches). These power cables are coiled, with only the amount required to reach the power supply uncoiled.

>all fans are 36 inchs long

The cables to my fans are as short as possible. It doesn't seem to matter, as I currently am able to consistently get SWR's of 1.2 for all the frequencies that I run. Of course, I spent a lot of time, over a lot of sessions, playing with my layout in order to get this low of a SWR... which may or may not be related to my non-standard power cable lengths.

>Oh on the Palomar 225, you need to replace the wire with a bigger >thicker wire, go to 10 size wire.

It depends on how many amps you draw when you first light the tube. If your device draws 15 amps or more when the tube is first lit (or when running), then you need at least 12 gauge, and maybe 10 gauge.

I'm currently using just 14 gauge, but my lin. amp. is only 100 watts, and only draws around 14 amps when the tube first lights up, and 9-12 amps when running.

>Brian you will be using a metal case it so less of a problem to you.

I've read that it is better to use wood, and to stay away from metal (because of the RF).

>Fan mounted >by drilling holes in 225 heat sink fin, ty-wrap the fan to the 225 and >it NEVER comes off again, also being directly mounted to it with no >risers/spacers all cooling air is forced into the heat sink >fins/channels...

It sounds like you have the fan *touching* the heatsink. This is not a good idea, unless 1) the fan isn't plastic and/or 2) the fan is *always* on when the palomar is on. (If the fan isn't on, and it is plastic, and touching, the plastic will melt.)

> see the ones that some other guy > sorry I can remember his name, who also has a link on Bare's website.  > he sells small sized ones also...these units work!!!

http://www.minfox.com/essiac/rife.htm

The case looks really nice, but the guy doesn't include any pricing information or other details. He also has the tube about 1' away from the rest of the equipment... which means that you have to get close to the tube to adjust the frequency. Thanx, but I'll pass; even with the tube 8' (or more) away from me at all times, the RF from the equipment still bothers me (I feel discomfort in my head if I'm too close). However I don't get the headaches that I used to get, so this is an improvement.

Later, fred

------------------------------

>>>>Since the braided wire running to the tube is not shielded it would seem >>>>that it would get more interference >>> >>>Huh? The braided wire running from the MFJ912 to the tube is only about >>>10" or 12" long. >>Oh.. I thought you had the 912 separate from the tube by a large distance. > >No, I have the MFJ912+tube separate from the rest of the equipment by >a large (8' or more) distance. > >The MFJ912 has to be as close as possible to the tube, because you want >those wires as short as possible, so that they don't act like an antenna, >and radiate RF into the air (instead of into the tube). > >>So you use 2 10" and 1 18' coax cables, total? > >I use two short (around 10" long) and one 18' long coax cables.  > >>>Mine are around 3'. (When I say "around" I mean within 4 or 5 inches). >>>These power cables are coiled, with only the amount required to reach >>>the power supply uncoiled. > >>I was under the impression that you did not want to run any AC equipment >>off the power supply and it was best to use a power strip for them. > >I was referring to the CB and linear amplifier power cables. > >>Plus, one post a time ago said to avoid 120V or metal cooling fans. > >I don't remember the 120V comment. I asked, a long time ago, about >metal cooling fans, because mine humm like crazy. But that might because >they are really old ones that I pulled out of equipment that I found >in a dumpster. > > fred >

 

------------- Monroe -----------------

real quick, I didnt know all the stuff that was wrong with the  PC-30, that Fred included in his letter to you, I gotta thank  Fred for that later, cause I didnt know..if you get a copy of  it letter

THANKS FRED for the PC-30 information.

I didnt know some units had problems over 6000 freq.

Both my Ramsey units needed to be set to the 244 millivolts  output level. yeah the old standard was 200 Max...I got the  new information from Dr. Bare awhile back, so set your  millivolts into the CB at somewhere between 200 and 250...I  sure would not use 250 tho, cause as I go from 20 Hz I get a  readout on the recommended digital multimeter ELENCO model  M-1700

Monroe in Houston, TEXAS FREQUENCY SET UP AN VOLTAGE READOUT

SET UP first I set it for 727 Hz, my tube light freq and I set the millivolts output of my Ramsey at that time. Digial meter on AC and "2"

Frequency Millivolts

727 244 20 245 100 246 200 245 500 244 1000 243 1500 241 2000 239 2500 238 3000 236 3500 234 4000 233 4500 231 5000 230 5500 228

At 6000 I have to switch to Khz output

6000 226 6500 224 7000 222 7500 220 8000 218 8500 216 9000 213 9500 210 10000 207

THATS IT! I set the millivolt output at one time when I light up the tube and as I go thru the range for frequencies that I run, the Ramsey's millvolt output voltage levels change. All are within the 200 to 250 millivolt range. So I leave it at that, not to high and not too low, just right with a small safety buffer from 244 to the max of 250...and its doesnt drop below 200 millivolts.

Maybe check with others and see what kinds of readouts they get. Oh this was done with only the meter alone attached to the Ramsey Frequench Generator output. (it did not make any difference if I have the rife unit attached, so there will be a standard way of this measurement setup. 

Oh I thought about drilling a hole in the back or side of the unit to just attach a BNC connector there at that point...why I didnt do it, I dont recall, but I did think long and hard about it. Now Don Tunney, just removes the bannan plug jacks totally and just runs a wire into that hole. Oh yeah, I thought about drilling a hole in the front of the Ramsey but didnt after I heard from Fred, I could cut thru a copper trace on the front panel and cause myself a whole load of bill and hillary problems. So to bill and hillary with that idea! drilling a hole on the side for installing a BNC female connectro was tossed out, cause. If you take the lid off you got a wire attached an in the way when you service the unit and thats a pain. On the back would of been good, but what if it sets on a shelf, the cable gets bent on the back and I didnt want to do that. I might still, cause my unit never sits on a shelf and since I have the front of the Ramsey always facing me and the back of it always facing towards the unit, so it might still happen, okay.

On the 007 unit the Ramsey just mounts on the side when its transported with the back side of the Ramsey facing towards the front, that way it protects the front panels.. 

================================= ! ! ! Ramsey Frequency ! ! Generator ! Alumium !! !! Angle Bracket -------- ___!! !!____ holes drilled and ================================= screwed to sides + + + <------rubber feet------ + ____________________________________________________________________ Table Top

* Notice there is a gap that the Alumimun angle bracket DOES NOT touch the table top, so it wont scratch it.

DRAWINGS NOT TO SCALE, OKAY

<-- 1/4 inch wide -- _______________________ ________________________ ! 1 1 !  ! 1 cut 1 ! ! 1 this space 1 !  ! 1 out 1 ! ! 1 1 ! ! 1 1 ! ! 1____________________1 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !========================== BEND ANGLE ============================! sticking up towards you

/!\ /!\ /!\ /!\ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

MEASURE AND DRILL 4 HOLES TO MOUNT ON THE SIDE OF THE RAMSEY FREQUENCY GENERATOR

you know that name Ramsey...interesting name, the Ramsey condoms, they are named after King Ramsey who fathered 160 children! There is a joke in there somewhere..ha ha

on the PC-30 it can be a battery charger and power supply. It just depends on what terminals you got connected on the terminal strip, that way it sets it for either battery charging or power supply. If the PC-30 has some fluctions, MAYBE adding a 30,000 mfd 50 volt capicator across it would help filter it out some...It should not need it, but I got one of those PC-30 power supply and if thats the case, then I hope someone looks into that and see if that helps the PC-30 unit power supply...even if they dont I may strap a couple of capicators on the sides of my PC-30...heck I might do it anyway, just ty-wrap the whole thing together. It cant hurt, just put the positive of the cap to the postive of the PC-30, attach the negative of the capicator to the negative power supply.

eOh yeah MY PC-30 and Palomar 225 does have the fans from Left Coast ty-wrapped right on it, no spacers what so ever...Fred had a good point about it getting hot to melt the plastic but that is not a problem, the heat sink gets nowhere near the temperature to melt the plastic. it works fine

As far as seperating the tube from the unit by having all the equipment in front of you and just running a coax cable to the MFJ-912 and the tube...well that is the way this equipment is designed to work, its manufactured to work like that...so its okay, one advantage is you can also adjust the swr where you sit...I know, I did it like that, and talked to Don Tunney, he said he tried it also but found he lost some power in the coax cable...well that makes sense, cause everyone knows that DOES happen..how much is lost, I dont know..there MAY of been some interference also to the Rife wave, I dont remember, check with Fred on that...if he is getting results with that setup, then more power to him....I tried that and it was mainly Lori didnt like all the equipment setting on the coffee table in front of couch, and once my SWR's are set, they stay the same no matter what freqency I run, and I have watched it closely..so I dont worry about it anymore...I set the SWR's and then forget it! On antenna wire length, I got this from Don Tunney, as soon as it leaves the tube wrapping. I sent you the length earlier, now Don is attaching the U-tube directly to the electrodes. Jim wraps tubes, Don attaches the wires directly to the MFJ-912...he may wrap some tubes still, I dont know tho..okay.

More power supply stuff. The Astron has to be off the floor or it grounds the wave, as far as my experience goes...Ralph Hartmen (RF engineer) says they contribute to what ever makes it put out a Rife wave..okay

now on my PC-30 set up...on the 007 James Bond unit...it goes contrary to that. The 007 units presently sits on a microwave rolling cart. The wires come together at a home made terminal strip, then the 9 feet of wire LAYS ON THE FLOOR as it goes to the PC-30 THAT ALSO SITS ON THE CARPET... I dont know...it works, thats all I care about...like I said there are so many differnt ways to make this thing work...AND there are alot of ways to make it not work...BOY do I know about that..ha ha...dont mess around with the wire lengths, the problems I have had in the past, where one of my units did not work for 6 weeks...hey that was part of the problem..I tried to make it look neat, no loose cable...guess what it didnt work..I also had a 8 foot cable extention..that did not work either...I got to 9 feet long, and it works...I dont know why, it just does...so I take what works and use that!

Fred mounts all of his equipment metal to metal, I did not know that. Well Don uses grounding straps, Jim uses grounding straps...so Monroe uses grounding straps also....Monkey see, Monkey do and by golly it works! I might try what Fred does later.... I would have to think about it for awhile! The way I look at it is Don Tunney has built more units than anyone I know, so he has looked at all sorts of ways to do it...I am just doing what I can to make the best unit possible.

This what I mean, we need a Rife/Bare Ray Beam Unit BEAUTY CONTEST Where everyone shows off their units, everyone learns from everyone else so we all share the best ideals. Requirements, it must put out Rife/Bare waves.

--------------- Dan S (drsmyth@iag.net) --------------------

 

> Questions - >  > I have a couple of 3" plastic 12VDC boxer-type fans that I plan to use > on the amp - one blowing down onto the heat sinks on top and one > blowing into the bottom of the (bottom-plate-removed) amp. Is it > recommended to mount cooling fans on anything else? 

I put one behind my power supply, blowing on the cooling fins.

This is my arangement for fans on my liner amp: ---------- { Fan } - Fan ----------  | | - 4 -1/4 dowels in mounting holes | | of fan, stuck in heat sink ribs ================= [ | | ] - Amp with bottom removed. Cut 3/8  [ | Amp | ] inch dowels long enough to go all  ==|============|== the way to the top of the amp. | | | --------- |  | { Fan } | | --------- | ================= - 1/4" plywood with a hole the size  | | of the fan blade in it.Also 4 holes for the dowels to go through.

<Snip> >Should I blow a fan on the tube or CB? -------------------------------------- No need, just put a heat sink on the transistor bolted to the back of the unit. A 2"x3/4" piece of aluminum bent in a U shape works well 

<Snip>  >Does the tube typically only rest in a wood cradle or are clamps >necessary? ------------------------------------------- No, use a couple of pieces of water pipe insulation around the ends of the tube; And a suitable fastener (a strip of plastic from a bleach jug) to hold it firmly in place.

-------------------------

--------------- Monroe and Fred ----------------

On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Fred Walter wrote:

From lem56104@Bayou.UH.EDU Thu Jan 8 03:15:03 1998 As far as seperating the tube from the unit by having all the equipment in front of you and just running a coax cable to the MFJ-912 and the tube...well that is the way this equipment is designed to work, its manufactured to work like that...so its okay, one advantage is you can also adjust the swr where you sit...I know, I did it like that, and talked to Don Tunney, he said he tried it also but found he lost some power in the coax cable...

That's my experience as well, as I have to have the clamps/loops closer together when I have the tube away from the rest of the equipment. I know that I'm still getting enough of an effect to stimulate my immune system when I have a cold. I don't know about cancer/etc though.

Fred mounts all of his equipment metal to metal, I did not know that. Well Don uses grounding straps, Jim uses grounding straps...so Monroe uses grounding straps also....Monkey see, Monkey do and by golly it works!

This is temporary. When I have time, I'm going to make a wooden case to hold everything in position. When I do that, I'll be using grounding straps, because I found (when my equipment wasn't touching each other) that they helped keep my SWR's down and stable.

fred

 

I had to move my clamps close together too when I ran my unit like your set up.

couldnt sleep, thought of some more stuff to tell Brian. Short version Dont use the large 4 inch fan to cool the Palomar 225 EXTREMELY BAD IDEA ...been there, done that...tell you the story on it later...Just use Left Coast fans, stick with what works...(yeah, imagine that...me of all people saying that)

oh on your RF Headaches. dont get spooked by this but you better run the cancer freqs...I found that my head 'lit up' skin tighten on face, tingling on side after I was spending WAY TOO MUCH TIME right next to the unit when trying to figure out how come the large 4 inch fan didnt work... short version...the RF from the unit stopped the fan...Left Coast fans are not effected...(well almost not, it took me a long time getting a trained ear to hear the difference when the beam is on and when its off...it does slow them down some but not like it did my TEXAS SIZED 4 INCH fan...it just stopped turning entirely, froze solid, until I turned off the beam...run it for a few minutes, let Palomar 225 get hot, turn it off, let fan come back on to cool it down, cycle repeated itself over and over... while I got sprayed with RF and got LOTS of headaches...I think the fan also acted like an antenna to help spray me with RF....so go with the smaller left coast fans...the problems I had with RF from the 4 inch fan, since I was the only one using that kind of set up...Jim and Don did not know what was going on...what did help was I found a old 24 volt DC fan and hooked it up also...THEN it was brought to my attention the differnce and drop in speed when the RF from the beam slowed down the fan... another important almost totally useless discovery made by Monroe in Houston, TEXAS WELL maybe not totally useless, we all gained knowledge....

HEY, DONT DO THIS!!!

ha ha...

I suppose someone who has the equipment an time to waste could see how many RPM the fans from Left Coast slow down when the beam is on but it would not be much...sounds like a useless governement project

lem56104@bayou.uh.edu

--------------------------------------- >No, the 10" cables are standard PL-259 connectors (just like the connectors >on the 18' cable). These are the ones that will fit on the back of the CB/etc.

Went to three Radio Shacks yesterday (I was dumb - I should have called first) looking for cabling parts. I can find PL-259 connectors, (non-solder and soldered) but they state they are for RS-58 (and they also have some SP-8M connectors) cable, which is very thin compared to SP-8. The only premade thick SP-8 cable they had was 5', so I got a thin, 2' one. This is for a spare, practice cable, knowing it will not give me a good wave due to length being close to the 1/4 (or some multiple) wave length, even though it seems that the the diameter is good enough for the CB since it is only 4W. So I have that one, the 2 18' (SP-8) ones, and the 30" SP-8 coming from Left Coast. I still plan on getting 2 1' (or 10") SP-8's when I can find them (all the serious electronics shops were closed yesterday (on Sat)). You use only thick, SP-8 cables on all the connections?

I could not find the double-male PL-259 (straight) connector at RS. Not that I would need it if I used the 18' between balun and tuner, but Jim recommended it so I figured I would have one around to try. I will get it at one of the supply houses on Monday.

Only one of the Radio Shacks had thick SP-8 cable for sale by the foot. But, they did not sell any connectors that said they were for SP-8. 

How many of the 4 possible modifications did y'all do to the CB? I cut the diode, but the instructions to cut the unmarked resistor were kind of vague (there were 4 unmarked ones near where the manual said to look) and I did not do the other two since it said that they would cause interference with TV (don't want to make neighbors mad). If I ever start running in a metal building, I will make all of them, since being able to run up to 35K would be a large benefit, I think, being able to use 1/3-1/27 of Clark's frequencies to use her frequency lists to catch bugs on the stronger harmonics. 

After doing up a schematic, my dad declared that, yes, it would be critical to have a very good grounding plane. He recommended running the braid horizontal on the back of each shelf, connecting them all together, and connecting the equipment on the shelves to it with short wires. He said this type of "xmas tree" grounding plane would make it not matter as much to the location of the equipment on the rack since spurious signals would be minimized. Since we only have 10' of the braid, we will go with the component to component grounding method for now, using the lengths Monroe specified. 

My braid is 13/64", but about twice the diameter of the 3/16" Radio Shack braid since the RS type is measured flat and the 13/64 is the diameter, which is flattened to make it wider than 1/4". I suppose you ground the components without grounding lugs by drilling a hole through the cases.

>You could, just as long as the plastic covering is removed where it is close >to the tube, so that when the tube gets hot/wire gets hot, there isn't any >plastic to get hot (melt/burn/give off toxic fumes).

I have 18 gauge wire to wrap the tube. As I said earlier (you did see the post I made to the list about the Allred wrapping method on the tube?) the 18 wire is touching the tube, even though Allred says this method will make the tube get hot enough to melt regular glass. Maybe it only gets this hot under the clamps and not under the spiral wrap, but it still seems it will get hot enough to melt the insulation on the 18 ga wire. Also, I need to talk to Allred about the picture of the tube wrapping he sent since it shows that the direction of the spiral wrap is in an opposite direction on either side of the tube, and this seems squirrely, since near the bubble, I would have to wrap a circle, then make a 180 deg bend in the wire to start the spiral in the opposite direction.

It looks like it's a good idea to make the modifications to the CB handset, as Monroe suggested, by subbing an ON/OFF switch for the push button, and a female BNC mount for the nuts and bolts used for terminals. I got a couple of female BNCs, but they are not the ones that can be mounted, so I will look for one of those.

Looking in the CB, I cannot figure out which component is supposed to have the heat sink mounted on it. Is it the largest transformer, which is near the back in the middle, the one described as being next to D14, the diode which is cut?

Dad declared that the Wavetech function generator is among the best and there should not be any problems with stability. He's used them a good deal in the past in benches he's designed and says they are as good as HP generators. I cannot understand why people say they get RF headaches when the tube is mounted near the func generator and amp due to the amount of time spent tuning. The Wavetech has a keypad - punch the numbers and <enter> to choose a frequency, which takes a few seconds. The func generator y'all use also has keypad entry, so why would it take more than a few seconds to "tune it" to a certain frequency?

turf

---------------- Fred -----------------

>From turf@mindspring.com Sun Jan 11 09:13:21 1998 >You use only thick, SP-8 cables on all the connections?

RG8 is really thick. I don't use this.

I use RG8X-95, which is also known as "mini" RG8. This is slightly thicker than RG58.

>How many of the 4 possible modifications did y'all do to the CB?

All four.

>I cut the diode, but the instructions to cut the unmarked resistor were >kind of vague (there were 4 unmarked ones near where the manual said to >look) and I did not do the other two since it said that they would cause >interference with TV (don't want to make neighbors mad).

The resistor is for the microphone in the handset. Cutting it means that you are no longer sending power to the handset (for the microphone), which makes sense, because the microphone has been removed. I don't know if it matters if you leave it in. (Probably not, but ask Dr. Bare.)

Don't worry, you'll be causing TV interference whether or not you make the other two changes. If you can get your SWR's low enough, the extra TV interference from those changes won't be noticable (its a qualitative change), and those changes supposedly help make the device more effective. (That little bit more may be the difference between affecting a health problem and not affecting it, so I made the changes.)

>I suppose you ground the components without grounding lugs by  >drilling a hole through the cases.

I soldered connectors onto my grounding braid, and I use the available grounding spot on the MFJ-949E, one of the screws on my lin. amp., and the mounting bolt/black knob on the Uniden. I didn't drill any holes for grounding purposes.

>Looking in the CB, I cannot figure out which component is supposed >to have the heat sink mounted on it. Is it the largest >transformer, which is near the back in the middle, the one described >as being next to D14, the diode which is cut?

I don't have my CB handy (I'm at work) but my heat sink is mounted at the back right of the CB. There is a transistor (in my Uniden) back there that is mounted to the case with a rivet. I removed the rivet (carefully, to not damage anything), and applied heatsink grease, and bolted the heatsink on.

You could wait until you've run it for 10-20 minutes, and then turn your device off, and see what is generating the most heat.

>Dad declared that the Wavetech function generator  >is among the best and there should >not be any problems with stability. He's used them a good deal >in the past in benches he's designed and says they are as good >as HP generators.

I originally tried using a HP frequency generator. It was all over the place when the device was on.

>I cannot understand why people >say they get RF headaches when the tube is mounted near the  >func generator and amp due to the amount of time spent tuning.

Your lack of understanding doesn't mean that I don't get a headache (nor GFoye, nor ...)

I attribute it to the RF. It might be something else that is causing the problem. All I know is that keeping away from the tube (and from the equipment) prevents these headaches.

>The Wavetech has a keypad - punch the numbers and <enter> to >choose a frequency, which takes a few seconds. The func generator >y'all use also has keypad entry, so why would it take more >than a few seconds to "tune it" to a certain frequency?

Actually, some people use a Loadstar, which does not have a keypad entry. They have to play with a knob, adjusting it to get the right frequency.

fred

---------------------------

>>How many of the 4 possible modifications did y'all do to the CB? > >All four.

I will make them as well, as soon as I can figure out which the  mike resistor is.

>I don't have my CB handy (I'm at work) but my heat sink is mounted >at the back right of the CB. 

I don't have the CB on me (at my Dad's house, who's working on it today) and he said that it appears that that transistor already has a heat sink held on with a bolt, and there's no rivet. Perhaps I got the 1998 model, and this has been fixed.

Since it may be a newer model, perhaps this is why I cannot identify the mike resistor. Where Bare says to look there is 4 unmarked resistors and not one. My dad is putting in the switch and BNC connector on the handset as Monroe suggested, but says that the on/off button throws two switches, a normally open and a normally closed, and it looks like it has a common with the mike portion, and has not yet figured it out.

>I originally tried using a HP frequency generator. It was all over the place >when the device was on.

I don't know how a good PLL generator could do this, or how you could tune a digital one if it drifted, short of entering the frequency over and over - I guess I will see.

>Your lack of understanding doesn't mean that I don't get a headache >(nor GFoye, nor ...)

I don't doubt that it occurs, but are you saying that the 10-second- at-a-time exposure (every 3 minutes or so) when you punch in the digits and enter them will cause it? I can see someone getting excess exposure with an analog machine where a knob must be turned, but not with a digital PLL generator, which corrects itself when the frequency drifts (and which I assume the Ramsey and Kinnaman are) and no more tuning than entering the digits is possible.

Fred, do you also keep the power supply off the floor and away from the rest of the components as Monroe suggests?

turf

----------------------

>>My dad is putting in the switch and BNC connector on  >>the handset as Monroe suggested, but >>says that the on/off button throws two switches, a normally open  >>and a normally closed, and it looks like it has a common  >>with the mike portion, and has not yet figured it out. > >Take a look at the audio frequency generator (for use with a Bare-Rife device) >up on my web-site. I think the schematic shows how this should be wired. > >>>I originally tried using a HP frequency generator. It was all over the place >>>when the device was on. > >>I don't know how a good PLL generator could do this > >The HP is a really old, analog, one. > >>I don't doubt that it occurs, but are you saying that the 10-second- >>at-a-time exposure (every 3 minutes or so) >>when you punch in the digits and enter them will >>cause it? > >Originally, I didn't get headaches from such short exposures. >However, when you are first playing with getting the SWR's down, >or writing down SWR's/etc (for reference sake), you get a bit more than >10 seconds of exposure. > >>Fred, do you also keep the power supply off the floor and away from >>the rest of the components as Monroe suggests? > >My power supply is kept off the floor; not on purpose though. >It never occurred to me to try putting it on the floor. > >Currently, the rest of my equipment sits on top of my power supply. > > fred

------------------------

> Frequencies above 11,000 and up to about 35,000 can be reached with the > Uniden 510 by simply increasing the output voltage of the function generator > to 1.8 volts. You must also have a function generator that will output into > this range.  > The Lodestar will go this high but the square wave will start to distort > much above 20,000.  > The only way to get to 131,072 is with the extensive modifications to the > 510 worked out by Tom Young. The Lodestar and Ramsey will not go this high > unless set to sine wave. 

Does this mean that if I use the 510 with the only modification of cutting the diode, and use 1.8v instead of 250mv, I can drive the thing to 35KHz?

I recently got a 510 from Left Coast. Per Fred and Monroe's instructions, I searched for the transistor on which to mount the heat sink. This transistor now already has a heat sink, and instead of being riveted to the case as it obviously was in the past, it is now bolted, so it appears that Uniden has fixed the problem in this year's model.

-----------------------------

I don't know the answer to your question, but I think it's a good idea to mention that if you use 1.8v for long enough (40 hours?), you will burn out something in your CB. (This is my generalization from someone's (Jim's) experience that was posted to the Rife mailing-list a while back.)

----------------------------

Turf,

I now have a diagram of where to cut and find all the components. Will put in the mail to you.

>Does this mean that if I use the 510 with the only modification of >cutting the diode, and use 1.8v instead of 250mv, I can drive the >thing to 35KHz? > >I recently got a 510 from Left Coast. Per Fred and Monroe's instructions, >I searched for the transistor on which to mount the heat sink. This >transistor now already has a heat sink, and instead of being riveted to the >case as it obviously was in the past, it is now bolted, so it appears >that Uniden has fixed the problem in this year's model. > >However, looking for the mic resistor to cut (2nd mod described in >manual), there are now 4 unmarked resistors in the area Jim >says to look, so I don't know which to remove. 

DPDT Switch ( )

To Red wire in handset ( ) To yellow wire in hand set 

To ground wire of handset and BNC ( ) To center of BNC  ground.

This is how one makes the on - off switch, using a BNC connector for the frequency input, the black wire is not used.

Will get diagram in mail today.

Jim

------------------------------

Best parts now available: Astron power supplies, Uniden CB, quartz tubes ( but the leaded are fine too) , silver streak linear ( absolute best is the self made amp in the book- no relays,no harmonic supression and a wide modulation swing), Ramsey or Kinnaman audio gen., 949E with the external 912 balun. For some reason the 912 and 949E makes a better wave than the 962 series. 

> >Another comment by an engineer with whom I have been discussing >the BRG. I mentioned how people frequently burn up their equipment >and he asked why don't you just "overdesign" it and spec high >power capable equipment that can withstand anything you >could dish it, even if you were screwing up with high SWRs and >such. 

Two tricks, one is sufficient cooling air to the linear and CB, second is a quartz tube. The Astron supply is trouble free, only failures have been from poorly constructed units kicking Rf back into them and blowing out the rectifiers. Radio Shack makes cheap replacements.

Sure, it might be outrageously expensive to do so and >most people would opt for the least expensive workable option >and just try to be careful when tuning and adjusting, but could  >it be done?

The self made linear will take amazing SWR abuse without failures.

Jim

>From turf@gelac.mar.lmco.com Sat Sep 13 08:06:55 1997 >About to start ordering parts. I could not tell from >your site if you built a linear or use a prebuilt one. >Which do you use and have you had any problems with it? 

I have a prebuilt one, a MAGNUM by Palomar. I'm not using one of the suggested linear amplifiers, but it seems to work ok (but I need to run with a higher power setting, because it is a lower powered lin. amp.)

>I asked Jim about this, but never got a response: can >I use my Wavetech function generator instead of the >audio generator?

I would think that you should be able to use it if: a) the output wave is 'square' enough and b) the output frequency is stable enough under influence of your Bare-Rife device

>Jim sent me this: >--------------------- >Best parts now available: Astron power supplies, Uniden  >CB, quartz tubes (but the leaded are fine too) , silver  >streak linear ( absolute best is the self made amp in  >the book- no relays,no harmonic supression and a wide >modulation swing), Ramsey or Kinnaman audio gen., 949E  >with the external 912 balun. >Two tricks, one is sufficient cooling air to the linear  >and CB, second is a quartz tube. The Astron supply is  >trouble free, only failures have been from poorly  >constructed units kicking Rf back into them and blowing  >out the rectifiers. Radio Shack makes cheap replacements. >The self made linear will take amazing SWR abuse without failures. >----------------------- >I assume he is specifying a 90/10 argon neon tube. Would >you get the same tube you now have if you did it over, or >consider a bubble?

I actually have a bubble tube (10 torre pressure, 90%argon/10%neon) that I had made by my local neon tube guy just before I moved, that I haven't had a chance to try out yet (my device is still in pieces, and I don't know where all the pieces are, as friends helped me pack). Since I don't have any real need for a Bare-Rife device, if I were to do it all over again, I would get different tubes (if money weren't a problem) and experiment with them.

>You agree with his parts list? If you use an off-the-shelf amp, >are you happy with it or would you get better >results as Jim implies with the self made?

I figure that Jim gets the most feedback about working devices (and non-working devices) from people, since he wrote the book, so his parts list is probably the best.

I would be tempted to use an off-shelf-amp because, unless I am mistaken the cost for the kit is about the same as the cost for the suggested off-the-shelf amp. However, when I was running sessions, I made sure nothing overheated (by taking breaks every 10-15 minutes) and I was careful to not run when I couldn't get low SWR's.

If you are up to making the linear from the kit, it sounds like it would be the better (less easily destroyed) choice.

>Thanks for any input you can give me on this.

Your welcome.

later, fred

>What components are you using in your Rife/Bare setup? > >Paul ============= Paul,

>From Left Coast Radio:

A pryamid ps21kx power supply. Palomar 225  MFJ 949E Uniden Pro 510XL 2-18' coax runs ========= A Kinnaman frequency generator with reducer.

 

Randy Love ranlove@flash.net ==============

================================================

Regarding the separation of components: I made an extension holder for the CB mic on one side of cabinet and another on the other side for the FG. This made a big difference in freqency stability for my Lodestar. The center of the Lodestar is extended about 24" forward of the tube & slightly to the right. The CB mic is extended out from left side about 24 "from tube.

Left or right would depend on where your components are arranged. The Lodestar is extremely stabile-hangs right on designated freq, sometimes may oscillate one digit up or down -actually too stabile as far as physiological aspects- but I'd rather have it that way than changing all over the place in 1000 hx increments. It's EZ to move it to make it slightly unstabile if needed.

Prior to making this modification along with rearranging wires & cables, I was convinced every component I had was defective. I didn't have to dial a freq - just turn the system on & watch every freq in the system plus a few more flash by on the readout.

The CB mic extension seems to add a little stability in the lower ranges ( EX: 20 thru 400) Got an extra mic clip from Radio Shack to attach to the extension.

Both extensions flip up or down for storage or use.

My tube lights right off and I seldom have to manipulate or change settings to do so. Just flip the mic switch about 3x at about 3 seconds each & 3rd time lights right up. Some days it lights first flip of switch. Other days it may take 3 or 4. I suspect this is related to barometric pressure. Going to get a barometer & record results.

GF

Re: lack of stability. I made a flip down extension for my B-R cabinet to extend my freq gen (Lodestar) out and away from everything else and makes tremendous difference. The FG is extended out in front & to the right about two feet. Did this with a 1" x 3" x 30" board with a small shelf to hold FG.

To flip down I drill two holes 3/8" dia toward rear and line drilled thru arm and cabinet. Front hole: 3/8" dia bolt with an aircraft lock nut so it won't come loose, then, when I flip it up, I slip in another 3/8 bolt (pull pin) in rear hole to hold in up position. When I want to lower it I just pull out the back bolt and lower extention. Extending it makes huge difference in FG stability. Also, for low freq I found extending mic switch out 2 feet stabilizes freq's.

GF

-----------------------------------------

My whole setup is all close together not 6' away. My CB to linear uses a 3' cable, linear to tuner uses a 3' cable and tuner to balun uses the 18' cable coiled up. It is all in a cabinet. I only need to get close to it when I first turn it on to fire the tube and set the SWR's. For treatment we get more than 6' away from the tube and let it run through it's list of frequencies. You probably could put your balun and tube further away from everything else if you wanted to, but I have heard that it might not run as well. I think that it may need that coiled 18' cable to make it reasonate properly (or at least better). I hope this is a little clearer.

Bob

-----------------------------------------

I have my 18' cable between the antenna tuner and balun, but coiled up into a large loop (12-13"). My tube is close to the tuner, but I'm only in front of it for a short time to adjust the tuner quickly. Just don't spend a lot of time in front of it at close range.

Bob

----------------------------------------

I had great success building my first machine using the copper bus bar that Don suggested to reduce RF (see rife-list 3/3/98).

I stacked my components in the following order from bottom to top:

MFJ949E Tuner Ramsey SG-550 Audio Generator Uniden Pro 510 XL CB Radio Palamar 225 Linear Amp. MFJ912 Ext Balun 20" Straight 90/10 tube

These I connected to a 18 inch 1"x1/4" copper bus bar. I used a couple of 1 1/" pieces of the bar to fill in the void on the back of the tuner and the audio generator. I offset the CB to the side and used a 4 inch #12 gauge wire to connect to the copper bar. The offset CB left the underside of the Linear Amp exposed so that I could cool it with a 2 inch Radio Shack blower (not fan) angled up at a 45 degree angle. I also used #8 jumper cables to connect my Astron 35M

Other these changes and using 2 ft antenna cables, I followed Dr. Bares book.

After the tube warms up (three minutes) I was getting a SWR of 1.3 with an output of 90 watts while running in the low 2000 Hz and the Palamar at the middle power setting.

The stacked components allow (of course) the system to be small and portable. The system is not sensitive to being moved around.

Good luck with your systems. Thanks Don and Chris.

Jeff

 




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