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SPACER Home > Bioelectronics > Rife-Bare Devices > Rife Bare Tech Notes > Tubes
 

Tubes

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Have been able to do a bit more checking on the ultrasonic emissions from
some different tubes.

1. Found that my computer monitor was somehow interacting with the wave and
giving off ultrasound readings! Didn't matter if the computer was on or off,
when the monitor was on, US could be detected very strongly in the area of
the monitor when the MOR was set to the US range. Shut the monitor off, and
the US readings disappeard. Meaning there are some changes to the report I
gave last Friday.

2. At Frequencies above 20KHz, a very narrow and weak focal point of US can
be detected coming off the phanotron tube. This point exists about 2' from
the tube just offset from the electrode connected to the hot side of the
antenna tuner balun. It is hard to find, and the freq adjust knob on the
receiver must be correctly set to find this point.

3. Frequencies below 10 Khz are physically audible ( one can hear the system
operating ), and there is a very intense US emission from the tube in this
range ( below 10K ). This field is diffuse about the tube, starting at the
glass envelope and entends as a 2' radius sphere around the tube. I believe
this is from the glass ringing.

4. Straight tubes also have a spherical emission of US below 10KHz. But it
is not as intense as the phanotron. Abover 20KHz, they do emit some US but
it is extremely weak, and like the phanotron, is confined to a very small area.

5. This testing seems to indicate that US does not really play a part in the
biological effects created by an R/B. The patient sits at a distance from
the tube where US emissions would be negligable. The same may be said for
EMEM type devices, providing the patient is sitting back a few feet from the
tube.

Dr. Rife however used to place his tubes close to the patient and also to
his microscopes. Most likely, at these short distances,  there was an
intense US emission which would interact with the patient or the mircoscope
specimen( invitro testing). The internet has references to harmonic
resonance effects of US on cells.

The large glass envelope tubes such as the 1947 one shown on my web site ,
and that came with the 1939 Beam Ray owned by the British Rife Group would
most likely "ring" very easily.  Possibly much more efficiently than the
small 4" diamenter Cheb phanotron. This might produce a much more intense
and wider range of US than a smaller diameter tube.

Jim Bare

----------

I just completed a kit that converts ultrasonic emissions into the audible
range. It works from 20KHz to 90 Khz. Have only tested a Bill Cheb phanotron
( 75mm Helium )so far with it and found some very interesting results.

Tested using my Geny-2 freq gen at 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 Khz

Initial findings (still needs a lot more investigation ):

A focal point of US exists! This lies about 20 degrees off the center line
between the two electrodes  to the angled electrode side. There is a very
minimal field on the straight electrode side. The field focuses at about 3'
( one meter ) from the tube and extends to about 150 degrees to the angled
electrode side. If too close to the tube , the transducer picks up nothing,
if more than about 5' from the tube the transducer is also silent.  I don't
know how much above or below the field exists. Certainly a good 2' above and
below the tube though ( 4 foot width minimum ).

In the past it was found that the electrical field of a phanotron comes off
at a perpindicular to the angled electrode. That is, it extends towards the
straight electrode side of the tube ( opposite of the US field !) . But this
electrical field may not be the active component. It may be that one needs
to use the acoustic focal point of the tube to achieve best effects.

I got the kit from American Science and Surplus for about 20 dollars. It is
not a kit for beginners! I had to cut a couple of pieces of plastic out of
the case to mount the speaker and the battery. The circuit board had
capacitor C-10 marked twice on it. Seems that one was really C-1.

Am. Sci. and Surplus is at http://www.sciplus.com

It is known as a "Smart-Kit" # 207  Ultrasonic Receiver

There was a web site listed on the package, which I don't know if it still
exists or not.

http://www.alertent.com

Needless to say have a lot more tubes to test and evaluate !

Jim Bare

-------

Most interesting and instructive- this is like the ultrasonic translator kits that are sold here to enable one to hear bats.
One thing - I wasn't aware that rife tube outputs were as ultrasonics, rather than as some form of electromagnetic emission, which would not normally be detectable by the piezo microphones used by the translator. It would seem therefore that at the focal points, or perhaps where there was some kind interference between e-m outputs, the air molecules would have been sufficiently agitated , or there was some interaction between the e-m emission and the diaphragm, to create a sonic effect that was detectable - unless there was a direct e-m interaction with the transducer. As the system does work, one could quite simply do the same thing by just hooking a piezo to the inputs of an oscilloscope set to a mv range, with a small amplifier  between if the unamplified outputs were insufficient.
I have just tried it and it does work without any amplifier - it is just necessary to screen the connecting wires very well to avoid pickinging up mains and other extraneous emissions, then one can see tube outputs quite clearly on the scope. Using  a small neon/argon filled straight tube there was no difference in the signal with distance upto 6 ft away, - but this was just a casual look-see trial! Will try something a bit better controlled later.

Regards, Andrew

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Perhaps you find the following observations of help or at least
interesting. Your comments are appreciated. {Descriptions of
running tubes at low power (4W) and high (100W or so)}

10mm x17" leaded glass, 75%argon/ 25%neon/mercury added , std 
pressures will light a with low power of 4-5watts, (need to 
kick with tesla coil or with ZeroStat can start with lot of 
trouble by adjust tuner) Tube glows with a moderately bright 
glow from end to end with 4 watts. swr 1.1/1 When excited with 
100w glows very brightly and draws 65ma on "relative power 
meter" on amplifier. swr 1.2/1

15mm x 20" leaded glass 75%argon/25% neon 8mm pressure will 
light about 10" of tube w/ ripples in tube (will not light 
unless kicked) and glows moderately w/ ripples in plasma, with 
4 watts swr 1.1/2 With 100w glows very strongly, draws 70ma 
relative power, swr 1.2/1 lights almost every time with no 
fiddling tuner ripples in plasma depend on level of modulation 
and frequency

22mm (1") x22" leaded glass 100% argon (6mm pressure? maybe 
you know what Roberts std pressure is?) from Robert R will not 
light w/ 4 watts. With 100 watts glows strongly, draws 75ma 
relative power, swr 1.4/1, have to fiddle tuner or kick with 
tesla coil or ZeroStat. I want to try 12mm tube and also 
consider mercury in other tube sizes unless you feel this would 
be harmful. Also other pressures, from what you indicated 
higher pressures may be beneficial. I will get 10mm x 22" to 
test soon.

All of these tubes "feel" about the same to me but, I can't 
say that I have enought experience to make a critcal 
judgement. 

The thing that I find intersting is that all of the tubes 
consume similiar amounts of "relative power" adjusted for 
length of tube, not related to diameter. Are the effects the 
same? Secondly the smaller tubing operating at 4watts does 
not feel nearly as strong, but it does seem to be "pleasant" 
and this would be expected. 

Low power devices are definitely more attractive for the less 
technical, wider audience due to lower costs. Lower Power may 
also be more desireable for longer run time exposures and less 
radiated rf fields. Keep up the good work, it is appeciated!!

Thanks, Neil from: avworks@webtv.net

==================================

I have been working with a new quartz bubble tube from Bob 
Casey. It is argon filled, and it has now become one of my 
favorite tubes. You have to wrap it with the extra spiral as in 
my posting a day or two ago. The tube is a bit shorter than 
normal as the quartz glass is collapsed some to make the 
bubble. I have really beat on this tube with some high power 
levels and long run times, and it hasn't complained a bit. 

Due to the difficulty in working quartz, making the expanded 
bubble is very time consuming. Bob has to price these tubes at 
150 dollars which includes domestic US delivery. Out of US 
delivery will be additional .

Jim

==============

Here is a word of caution for those who seek to obtain better 
square wave modulation and low frequency response. It is 
certainly possible to switch the RF at the pre-driver or driver 
transistor in a CB and thus generate very clean square wave 
modulated RF with fast rise and fall times and no lower limit 
to the frequency response. However, at low modulating 
frequencies such as 20Hz the plasma ionisation will be lost 
during the "off" half of each cycle, and the tube may not 
reignite at the next half cycle {unless the "Kinnaman" mod
is made to the CB}.

The natural temptation is to adjust the tuner so that the tube 
does restart on each modulation cycle, and then to wonder 
whether it is safe to leave it running with the resulting high 
SWR and vibrating meter needle. In my case it wasn't and the 
amplifier transistors failed after a short while. I didn't 
learn the lesson and allowed the same thing to happen with the 
new amplifier! The four MRF455 transistors were expensive, and 
I am not experimenting with frequencies below 300Hz at the 
moment.

Maybe some of the complementary ways of wrapping the tube will 
overcome this problem, or perhaps less than 100% modulation 
would allow the tube to stay alight while still running with an 
acceptable SWR. But if you have to set the tuner differently 
for starting, and you are intending to modulate at low 
frequency other than by using the CB modulator, be aware of 
the possible outcome! -- Bob Haining

============================================

Have finished testing new tubes and have already made a 
suggestion or two to the two leaded glass tube suppliers that 
are listed - Absolutely Neon and Allred Neon. Their tubes will 
now be filled at these new increased pressures.

Argon/neon mix ( 80-20 or 80-10 as the case may be) pressure of 
10mm or 10 torr in a 25 mm diameter tube produced the best 
overall wave I have ever experienced. Akin to adding 50 watts 
of power easily to the device, but wave was much more 
penetrating and coupled better. This is mostly just perceptual 
- been around the device a lot -easily well over 600 hours now 
and have tried a lot of different tubes. Currently have 18 
different tubes here in the office for example. No prior tube 
has ever produced this intensity of wave for me. The wave is 
EXTREMELY energizing - doesn't irritate just produces a LOT of 
vitality. 

Pure argon tube at 10mm pressure did not light readily, tube 
did not light end to end, and wave was quite poor. Obviously 
too much pressure for pure Argon gas. 

I have tried 6mm pressure argon gas tubes and they produce a 
terrific wave. My guess is that 8 torr pressure in a 25 mm 
diameter tube is maximum for Argon gas. Need to try this to 
confirm, but think it would be safe to order an argon tube at 
this 8mm pressure.

Argon/neon mix at 8mm pressure produces a nice wave, but not as 
intense as the 10mm pressure.

Barry Allred supplied all these tubes for testing. Barry has 
developed a new type of tube that is an improvement on the 
straight glass version. Barry takes and adds glass to the 
center of the tube and then blows a bubble in the tube of about 
two to three inches in diameter, thus keeping the glass 
thickness even. One then winds the tube in the usual manner to 
ignite it. The added bubble in the center of the tube adds 
somewhere in the vicinity of another 10 to 20 percent intensity 
to the wave. Again this is purely perceptual and until somone 
figures out exactly how to measure the wave it is going to have 
to do. 

The Argon/neon mix works really well with the bubble at 10mm 
pressure. The pure Argon at 10mm is just not very good at all. 

Pure argon at 6mm and the bubble is very very good.

Barry charges an extra 10 dollars for these bubble tubes and I 
would say it is well worth it. 

As to pyrex and quartz tubes. In quartz, only argon gas has 
been available, and the quartz tube was optimized for its 
pressure in earlier testing by me. Pyrex tubes are a bit 
smaller in diameter and are also optimized for pressure at this 
time. Both pyrex and the quartz glass tubes will work poorly if 
you increase the pressure any more than they are presently set 
at. Quartz and pyrex tubes are still the toughest tubes 
available and will take immense abuse without failure. These 
tubes are producing good effects for people and should not be 
discounted.

As a side note took a piece of pastry that was developing a 
green mold and exposed it on two consecutive days to 784 and 
702 for 3 minutes each using a neon tube. All further mold 
growth stopped, and it has been 4 days now since the last 
exposure. Can't tell if old mold is dead or inactive, but it is 
still visible, but no larger than it was at exposure. 

Jim

==========================

Bob Casey who supplies the quartz glass tubes - is now 
supplying pyrex glass tubes. These are 25 mm tubes - same size 
as the leaded glass tubes, but a little longer at 23 to 24 
inches overall.

Pyrex like quartz is very tough material and will take immense 
abuse without failing. 

Bob says that the gas mixtures can be varied if necessary , and 
he hopes to soon be offering the gas mixtures in his quartz 
tubes.

For now the gasses and mixtures that are available are as 
follows:


Argon 80% Neon 20%
Argon 90% Neon 10%
Argon 80% Krypton 20%
Argon 90% Krypton 10%
Krypton 100%


Bob has been told that Krypton is a better gas than neon to 
make lighting the tube easier. I have not tried a tube with 
krypton in it yet to confirm.

You can reach Bob at

bobc@symation.com
bobc@pacificnet.net

or phone him at

818-508-7160

Please contact Bob for prices -

Jim

=========================

Pure Xenon gas in a quartz tube doesn't like RF - makes a 
really lousey wave and most of the audio is actually stripped 
off in the tube making the tube buzz.

Jim

=========================

Large diameter pyrex tubes are available up to 3 inches in 
diameter from Mr. Dale Harder. These tubes will be expensive 
depending upon their length and diameter. Expect to pay 
anywhere from 100 to 250 dollars each for them.

Dale Harders
216-476-1433
http://www.apk.net/HH 

I haven't looked at this site so don't know what is there.

Jim

============================

Hi List, Anybody heard anything from Lynn Kinney? He is listed 
in Jim's book as a place to order your tube. I ordered one from 
him on May 2, and I still have not received it. Four months 
seems like a long time to wait for a tube or any communication 
from him. He doesn't answer my email or phone calls to him. He 
cashed my cashiers check on May 22, so I know that he got it. 
By the way I ordered a tube from Barry Allred in Greesboro, NC 
and received it in about a weeks time. Good tube and it works 
fine.

-------------------

Monroe,

There is no discernable difference between the 90/10 and the 80/20
tubes.

Burn out is when the tube gets so hot under the clamps the glass melts
and perforates.

>so what is the mix? 90/10 or 80/20
>and what is tube burn out..
>do I still wrap it or attach wires to the electrodes on the ends...

Wrap the tube.

>and hard to light...gee I have enough problems lighting up what I
>got...but hey, if this is better, then...YOU KNOW I am going for it..ha
ha

Will make a much better wave and will start easily enough at 9mm for
you.

>
>this tube burn out thing...what is it and how will I know when it happens
>and how do I prevent it...maybe go 9 mm pressure?

burn out= hole in tube = no gas in tube = no light in tube = 
unhappy :'(

Jim

-------------------------------------

just open the yellow pages and call around for neon sign shops 
and ask what they would make you a tube for 24 inchs between 
the electrodes, 25mm glass (the mix and pressure you 
select...and NO MERCURY!) YOU GOTTA TELL THEM OVER AND OVER NO 
MERCURY...cause they put it by habit... SO try to be there when 
they make it if you can...

After much serching, I could not find a place that had 100 
percent argon...so I asked one neon shop, where they got their 
gas..seems all the shops get their neon gas from the same 
place...so i asked called the neon gas supplier and told him I 
needed to know who he sold 100 percent argon gas too...Well I 
volunterred why I needed that information...other wise he 
probalby wont tell you diddly squat! I need a neon tube made 
with 100 percent argon gas, who do you see 100% argon gas to 
that makes neon signs....I asked for a couple, to price 
shop...and he have me two people he sells 100 percent argon 
too...glad I asked also..the first guy, 100 bucks for a special 
order..the next guy...I hit the jackpot...he asked why..I told 
him about rife stuff...he said he would make me the tube for 
free...if I told him more about it....

which one do you think I picked?

Monroe in Houston, TEXAS

------------------------------

>A question about the tube. Do they normally come with electrodes
>inside, or is just a tube filled with gas enough?

Neon-tube guys make tubes with electrodes. Glass-blowers can 
make other types of tubes, but you pay a lot more for this type 
of tube.

If you get a tube with electrodes then you can use it in 
different devices. In Bare-Rife device with the tube wrapped, 
in an EMEM2 device using the electrodes.

Just make sure that you don't wrap around the electrode portion 
of the tube because the electrodes will get really HOT from 
induction from the RF.

>they typically come with metal electrodes inside

Yes.

>and a few people connect directly to them

Only Don Tunney, to the best of my knowledge. The tubes (which 
he connects to using the electrodes) are bent into a U-shape, 
and he sometimes has to swap components around to get a good 
working setup. (This last bit is from memory from a piece of 
email that I sent him, asking him about the Bare-Rife devices 
that he is building/selling).

>but most use the wrapping technique to get a wave along the length
>of the tube as opposed to just between the electrodes

I'm not sure what you mean by "to get a wave along ... as opposed".

Most people wrap the tube because that is what Dr. Bare suggests.
And it seems to work.

>but I have found a couple places in town that
>make tubes and I might establish a relationship
>with them in case I start frying tubes.

If you keep the SWR's down, and turn your equipment off every 
15-20 minutes for 5-10 minutes (to let things cool off) then 
you probably won't fry a tube. There are other advantages to a 
local supplier. You save on shipping costs, and you may be able 
to talk him/her into a lower price. If you get a local person 
to make it, ask them to clean the tube thoroughly (the less 
impurities the better).

fred

------------------------

okay when you go see a neon tube made you know why they put 
the electrodes it in them... they blast it with high power 
volts and amps...it gets orange hot and the tube glows...it 
gets rid of the impurities in the tube, gets rid of any air 
also left inside...this process is called Bombardment

so its used to clean the tube inside....

its easier for neon sign guys to seal it up also.... just get a 
tube with electrodes, that way you can try both ways of 
lighting it up.. if you worry about heat burning a hole thru 
the tube...get quartz tube... a quartz tube can glow orange, if 
you could put that much power in to it and it wont burn a hole 
thru it... it can take the heat and come back for 
more...punishment...but its dang expensive...like 300 bucks... 
better get your gas mix right and pressure right, if your gonna 
pay that much for a tube.

Monroe in Houston, TEXAS

------------------------------------

It seems that if I use a tube too much, subject to long run 
times at high power and repeated on/offs, it temporarily no 
longer produces a pure mauve beam. It starts to get more and 
more whitish blue with tinges of green and other colors in the 
corona. Then, let it sit 48 - 72 hours, it is fine, or at 
least better. After about 12-24 hours, it will produce a mauve 
beam or partial one at first, and go to white-blue after a 
while. The longer the rest period, the longer it will go 
without whiting out.

This is likely less a problem on systems where only medium 
power is used. I was using primarily high power on my devices, 
but I will go to using medium. It is also probably less a 
problem on standard straight tubes than large bubble tubes 
which require wire wrapping.

Tunney mentions the tube going whitish blue and at one point 
said it was caused by too much power. He said he thought this 
color may be less effective for certain maladies like cancer. 
Back off the power and it was fine. Not for me - turning down 
the power to low leads to a broken, pearly, bending beam, but 
still the same color. I thought it was primarily from too much 
heat. But, I put a fan on a tube on a tube (last used 12 hours 
previous) and it still turned white even though the tube did 
not get that hot. It also seems it could mean there is too 
little modulation power since the look of the wave is more the 
same color as when there is no modulation since it goes a bit 
fuzzy when it turns white.

I put in an older tube I have not used in a few days and it 
works perfectly, even though the last time I used it (on high 
power), it whited out after a half hour (last used 24 hours 
previous). Now, on medium power, I have run it an hour 
straight without problems (and without a fan). It appears that 
this tube, with a smaller bubble, recovers faster than the 
tubes I have with a larger bubble.

Something I just thought of writing this post that I have not 
tried yet (but don't think it's a factor) is that excess 
voltage level from the func generator could be causing it (I 
typically use a 0 to 1.2V square wave (which would be 0.6V by 
this list's terminology.)

==================================

> yeah the tube turning colors is what Don and I were talking about
>privately awhile back...tube polution...he said he had a tube with 700
>hours on it..and it still worked good...

I talked to Barry Allred and he said that was the problem - 
pollution. The triple thickness glass has more potential 
pollutants than single thick. From what I understood of his 
explanation (any lapses are mine and not his):

When he conditions them, he uses a straight transformer, but if 
they get hot (like mine do), especially uneven hotness (like 
one sleeve getting real hot), it will release pollutants from 
the glass. As tubes age, the ceramic discs on the electrodes 
will absorb the pollutants, but they do so best when the 
electrodes are used and get hot (but not too hot since the 
glass is only single-thick on the electrodes.) Even the 100% 
argon tubes burn white when he first starts to condition them. 
So, it takes a while. This would explain why the older tube I 
have does better than the new ones I have used. It also has 
less surface area since it has a smaller bubble than others I 
have used.

He thinks that it should not make a difference in effectiveness 
of the beam as long as the SWR and power levels stay good. I 
have noticed that it still seems effective, but I have not 
really noted the color of the beam much until recently. I will 
check.

========================

A pure argon 25mm tube will tolerate about 8mm pressure, but 
7mm is better. Gas mixtures can be taken up considerably. I 
don't know of anyone running over 12 mm pressure. I have tubes 
that run at 10mm as an Ar/Ne mix, but the tube does get really 
hot and can be hard to start at times. 

There is no question that the higher pressures add to the wave 
quality.just don't know how high they can be taken as a mix.

Jim

=========================

> I have been doing some interesting experiments with tube lengths and
>pressures. I find that 3mm gas pressure in a 25mm dia tube. beam nearly
>fills tube from side to side with a soft/fuzzy beam end to end of tube.
>further I find that increasing pressure 6mm / to 8mm / to 10mm /to
>12mm of pressure argon/neon gas mix 75/25 the beam gets more focused
>and brigther in color/intensity. It also appears that the impedence of
>the tube goes down and will pass more watts of power.
>Thanks, Neil from: avworks@webtv.net

===================

The more compressed the center plasma is the better the wave. 
I've seen 1" tubes with center compressions of from 1/2 inch to 
about 2/10 inch across. The 2/10 will really make the wave 
work. The tube also gets brighter the more compressed the 
plasma. I once had a tube that had a central compresson on a 
few select frequencies of what had to be but a couple of mm. 
Managed to break the tube of course.

Jim

======================

According to Allred, the beam width is dependent on pressure.
The higher the pressure, the more compressed a beam is 
possible. There is a point of diminishing returns since when
the pressure gets too high, the tube will be difficult to 
light and not burn end to end. -- turf

=================

To add some comments of my own; Generally speaking, the 
higher the "pressure" in a tube, the greater the light output. 
Photons are packets or a unit of light energy, so in this 
sense, you'd get more photons.

Many don't realize that even at elevated pressures (greater 
than 10 mm Hg), the inside of the tube is still at a high 
vacuum. So it is impossible for anything to leak out of the 
tube simply due to the great pressure differential between the 
inside and outside of the tube. In actual fact, the greater 
the "pressure" in the tube, the less stress there is on the 
glass due to decreased pressure differential.

Regards,
Bill

=====================

I am not a qualified technician either electronically or with 
plasma tubes. The following is simply based on my personal 
experience. Also, each unit reacts differently so what applies 
to my unit may vary with someone elses. But, hopefully this 
will enlighten those just starting out and perhaps we can find 
some issues of debate to iron out.

Comments about plasma tubes.

This is in reference to operation ( not physiological aspects) 
Glass: So far plain leaded glass as used for neon lighting 
seems to be easiest to operate and set up. Pyrex: Harder to 
start initially but does burn in nicely and becomes easy to 
start. Did have a pyrex tube that operated so efficiently that 
I never had to change a setting on my tuner, just turn system 
on and away it would run. Quartz: Very hard to start and to 
keep running. Lot of stress on equipment. Not happy with mine.

Gas: Neon is ideal for beginners with ease of set up. Argon 
with neon reasonably good. 80/20 or 90/10 ( Argon/neon ratio.) 
100% Argon - hard to start but appears to be most effective 
physiologically.

Gas: There is industrial quality and lab quality. Use lab 
quality for Rife.

Pressure: Here is an area of concern and problems: High 
pressure yields better physiological results but hard to start 
and run hot. 

Deal with someone who has been making tubes for Rife and 
understands our needs - they can guide us. Tubes must be 
cleaned of contamination or they won't function properly. Have 
one that will burn only at one end. Have another that can't get 
SWR's below 1.4:1 (contamination or pressure problem ?)

New tubes: All- clean thoroughly on set up. One tube maker 
recommends soap and water. Dry thoroughly before lighting. 
Pyrex and quartz need a 'burn in' time. That is, operate about 
10 minutes, shut off and let cool. Do this a number of times 
before running full sessions.

Of course, the components alter the operation and effects so 
the same tube may function differently on someone elses device. 
Each tube reacts differently on the same device and adjustments 
must be made accordingly.

There is also a need to look into aspects of glass and possible 
gases relating to effects - good or bad. For example: does 
quartz or pyrex offer better physiological effects? Does some 
glass introduce UV or something else that may be harmful?

Let's see what we can learn - other input?

GF

===========================

I've been working with some new tubes from Bill Cheb. These are 
giant size tubes conpared to what has been used in the past. A 
few people have had custom tubes made up of similar size and 
their reports prompted further investigation.

The tubes are 2" in diameter, and average between 27 and 28 
inches in length. Initial offering will be of two different 
gasses . First is a pure argon tube at 5.5 to 6mm pressure. It 
was found that higher pressures not only made starting the tube 
difficult, but the color of the gas was off considerably. The 
5.5mm pressure gave a very nice mauve color. This tube will run 
well with the linear set on it's low power setting.

The other tube uses a commercial Ar/Ne mix made in Germany, 
called "H" gas. The tube for this gas uses a "getter" which 
absorbs impurites within the tube left over from the 
bombardment process. This tube will be filled at 14mm of 
pressure. The H gas does not like to run in these tubes without 
the getter and the color is off considerably without the getter 
in the tube. 

I just used the H gas tube in a lecture I gave in Denver at the 
Global Sciences Conference. The wave from this was able to be 
felt at the back of the hall which was over 150 feet from the 
stage. Checking the emitted field on my oscilloscope shows that 
the scope picked up a wave that was twice the strength of my 
standard tubes. This tube will need to be run on the high power 
setting of your linear- it really likes to run with over 75 
watts of power to it. At higher frequencies (>4000) it will 
need at least 130 watts of power to it. The tube does not run 
hot at all. This tube also makes a lot of harmonics which can 
be seen on your TV. So be aware that if you live in an 
apartment this may not be the tube to have.

With 200 watts of power to the H gas tube, I could not stand 
being around it very long so intense was the field.

Due to the neon in the H gas, the wave is not as coarse as a 
pure argon wave. The argon tube gives a very agitating wave.

Bill says prices will be 130 dollars for the regular Argon 
tube, 170 dollars for the H gas with getter tube. Air mail 
shipping in North America is 17 dollars.

Bill can be reached at <bill.cheb@ualberta.ca> or phone at 
403-465-4960

Bill says he will be at the Rife Conf in October and will have 
some tubes available for purchase if you want to bring one home 
with you. 

============================

As Jim has indicated in his post regarding the "Super Tube" 
(which we developed jointly), one model has incorporated in it 
what is known as a getter. A getter is a special combination 
of rare earths and other materials and commonly comes in the 
form of a "button" or small cylinder. It's function is to 
absorb impurities of either a gaseous and/or moisture nature 
within a vacuum vessel. It also absorbs any residual air that 
may exist within said vessel. The Nobel or Rare gasses are not 
affected or absorbed. Normally, these getters are used in 
industrial high quality electronic vacuum tubes like image 
intensifiers, photo multipliers, X-ray tubes and lasers.

I've been working with the engineers at Corning Glass for the 
last several months trying to nail down the cause of plasma 
instability, unaccounted-for color change and other anomalies, 
of which most of you are familiar with.

Let me give a brief background. All glasses, and I mean all 
glasses...with the notable exception of Quartz, contain a 
variety of minerals and metals AND moisture in their makeup. 
We've determined that it is mainly the moisture content that 
affects the nature, behavior and color of the plasma. This 
moisture is in the form of a hydroxyl (OH) and it is normally 
locked within the molecular structure of the glass. However, 
the action of the plasma and/or heat within a tube can...not 
necessarily will, but can, cause this moisture to be released 
near the surface and thereby affect how the plasma behaves and 
the color of it. The change can be either temporary or 
permanent. The type or mixture of the Rare gas (s) within a 
tube as well as the physical size and configuration of the 
glass itself are also contributing factors.

The most effective solution to the problems mentioned is to use 
a getter in the plasma tube. Once activated, it readily and 
permanently absorbs any moisture that may be released as well 
as the other things mentioned earlier. The result is an ultra 
clean environment within the tube. Under these conditions, the 
Noble gas plasma is not affected by any kind of contamination 
and this results in a plasma that behaves properly. The 
getter is activated at the last stage of tube preparation by 
special heat treatment, and once activated, remains so.

Anyone ordering a tube from me can have a getter added to the 
tube at an additional cost of $60....these things are not 
cheap. The other solution of course, is to use a tube made 
from Quartz. Quartz is pure silica and contains none of the 
potentially offending materials as described earlier, but it is 
as we all know, quite expensive.

Well, I've made my earth shattering contribution for the 
week....should generate some interesting responses.

With regards,
Bill Cheb

==========================

I've had a few inqiuries as to how I wrapped or coupled these 
tubes to the tuner. I tried several methods and finally settled 
on using copper sleeves with an internal layer of felt. Between 
the sleeves I wrapped a 48" piece of single stranded wire of 
about #20 gauge. One end of this wire I wrapped over one sleeve 
and held it in place with a piece of electrical tape. The other 
end of the wire I ended about 1/4 inch from the sleeve. I held 
this end in place with a piece of electrical tape. You may have 
to try switching ends with the two terminals on the balun to 
find the one the tube runs best with.

With the large tubes, you must have adequate power. If you lack 
RF power the plasma in the tube will twist and wobble, and 
plasma balls will form. With enough power the plasma will 
settle and make a nice straight coherent line. 

Bill worked hard to get the pressure right on these tubes. He 
also spent a considerable amount of time to find the 
information on getters and to fabricate a mounting method for 
the getter that works. Bill made up some tubes with and without 
the getter - otherwise they were identical. There is no doubt 
the getter works. The getter equipped tube started easier and 
gave a very different color to the wave. 

Jim

==========================

I've done a little more work with a 5.5mm pressure Argon super 
tube from Bill Cheb. It produces only a slightly stronger 
voltage reading on my oscilloscope than a standard 1" diameter 
tube. But it does produce a lot more harmonics which can be 
seen as TV interference, whereas the 1" tube does not do this 
unless it is badly mismatched with high SWR's. It seems the 
significantly stronger voltage reading of the transmitted wave 
occurs with the high pressure H gas tube and not the low 
pressure argon.

Robert Randazzo of Absolutely Neon came by this afternoon and 
it turns out he has been making 1 3/4 inch diameter pyrex tubes 
for some time. His tubes have pyrex electodes on them. Robert 
also uses a large oven to bake the tube and also flame heats 
the tube to drive out impurities prior to filling. The 
electrodes made starting the tube slightly easier than the non 
electrode tube of Bill Cheb. Bill's tubes are very easy to 
light, so this is mostly a mute comparison. Emitted field 
strength of the two tubes was very close. 

Robert's tubes are priced quite competitively with Bill's. 
Contact Robert at 505-265-6366.

Jim

=========================

I like Allred tubes. I have used his 28" bubble tubes 
exclusively since I began rifing. The "theory" behind them is 
that the high pressure and high volume of the tubes creates a 
higher intensity wave which may penetrate better. Akin to 
adding 50W of power to the device, Bare surmised at one time.

One problem I have had with their use has been them burning 
white after an hour or so of initial use. This may be 
prevented in some cases by wrapping them properly from the 
start, which means wrapping a few inches of the lead wires with 
glass tape (on the sleeve end, since the high heat will melt 
Monster cable insulation) and zipping them to the end of the 
tube over the electrodes, or using Bare's method of making a 
couple of turns of braid over the electrode section before 
attaching to the clamp. This will provide some lighting of the 
electrodes (and hence heating) to absorb contaminants.

The electrodes Allred uses in the ends of the tubes are, in 
fact, "getters" or "gatherers" like Cheb is now including in 
his tubes. Even so, I suspect most Alled tubes should be 
conditioned soon after construction since in normal use, the 
electrodes do not get hot enough to absorb contaminants enough 
to prevent the beam from burning white, not when using the 
copper sleeves, anyway.

I have a couple of non-28" tubes (one 26" straight and one 24" 
bubble) from Allred that needed conditioning soon after I got 
them. Allred will do this for free for his tubes, but of 
course they must be sent back to his shop. After my tube 
conditioning, though, these smaller tubes did not recover. I 
cannot get a beam to extend the entire length of them - 6" is 
the max. I suspect I have too little volume or got them too 
hot during conditioning or operation.

I will soon get a transformer to be able to condition the 
tubes, which may help with the lighting problem, too. This is 
the ideal way to condition the tubes. Allred suggests a 5000V 
(min) 30ma transformer. "Beer sign" neon transformers are ideal 
for this purpose and can be had cheap if found used. They can 
also be ordered (France or Allison are the best brands) for 
about $35 (5000V) to $40 (7500V) wholesale. During this 
process, the tubes are merely connected to the electrodes on 
the end and lit until they get hot. Turn off, let cool, and 
repeat a couple more times. I don't know if it offers any 
benefits over the tube conditioning procedure on my web page. 
I am just hoping the high voltage can overcome the "short beam" 
problem I am having with the small tubes.

Another problem I had with the 28" Allred bubbles initially was 
discovering the wrapping method to allow them to burn with a 
decent looking beam at all frequencies. The bigger the bubble, 
the harder this is to accomplish. Every tube has required a 
slightly different wrap depending on the size of the bubble and 
the power available from the other components (but they are all 
very close to the wrapping method shown on my web page.) After 
working on the last one, I thought to myself it would be nice 
to just have a straight tube so it could be wrapped 
consistently from tube to tube, but make it larger diameter so 
it would have the volume necessary for a high intensity wave.

Then, Cheb's tube comes along. It is straight and 2" wide, so 
has the volume without the bubble. But, the main thing that 
appealed to me was the "getter" he is including. Even if it is 
the same one used as the electrodes in the Allred tubes, it may 
work better, I surmise, if not mounted on the end of the tube. 
It would get hot with the rest of the tube and perhaps perform 
its function better. And hopefully, preclude the need for 
conditioning the tube. I don't know if the super tube with 
one getter is worth the additional $100 over the Allred tube 
(which includes two getters), but I would like to find out.

==================

Mercury in a tube is not generally considered to be a Good 
Thing by some Rifers. Although the presence of Hg in the tube 
certainly makes the tube easier to light, it also seems to 
eliminate the high amplitude optical pulse which is present at 
the beginning of each "On" cycle. According to some anecdotal 
reports, tubes without this optical pulse do not appear to work 
as well biologically as do tubes which exhibit the pulse.

Ralph W5JGV

===============

I have used quartz tubes for 3 years now and never once had an 
erythema reaction to them. Apparently the RF is driving the 
tube in a different part of it's spectrum and UV emission is 
negligable. I have a cheap UV meter and it won't read anything 
an inch from the tube.

Jim

================

With the exception of the 100% Argon-filled tube, all of my 
tubes came from Absolutely Neon. 505-265-6366. The cost of 
the Hydrogen mixture tube is currently about $100. It's a 
thick-walled tube, to prevent burn through, but pyrex may be an 
option. I suggest calling Absolutely Neon and talk to Robert 
Randazzo. He is the owner/operator, has produced/filled 
hundreds of tubes for the R/B devices and can answer all of 
your technical questions regarding pressures, filling 
techniques, gas mixtures, getters, etc., etc.. He also produces 
a wide variety of tubes, including bubble tubes and a two inch 
pyrex tube, has many years in the industry and has helped my 
understanding a lot! Please call him with your tube-related, 
technical questions.

I purchased the function generator at Frey's Electronics, for 
about $160. I run it by itself or in conjunction with the 
Ramsey audio generator through the use of an "E-Z-Hook" 
connector called a "stacking banana center, stacking banana 
ground to bnc rg58c/u cable". It's model# EZ-1224-18 and was 
also purchased at Frey's for $11. It connects to the function 
generator via the bnc connector, plugs into the Ramsey via 
banana connectors and allows banana connectors to be plugged 
into it. I have banana connectors at the ends of 2 foot leads, 
running from the modified CB handset, and these plug into 
either the Ramsey or the E-Z-Hook connector, which allows for 
individual operation of either unit or a combination of the two.

I currently use the FG and the Ramsey together by plugging 
both into the CB handset and adjusting the 
frequencies/settings. I tune them through the antenna tuner 
and get surprisingly low SWR's. I have just begun to work with 
this combination but believe it will prove of value; we'll see.

=====================


>From AbsolNeon@aol.com Mon Sep 21 14:57:26 1998

Some of you may know that i have been involved in the 
manufacturing of rife tubes since 95 when i filled some of 
James Barres 1st tubes here in Albuquerque. Id`e like to make 
some important comments on the manufacture of these tubes and 
clear up some of the fine points . 1st I think a short bio on 
myself is in order .

25 years as a glassblower in the Illuminated Sign Industry 
operating Ablolutely Neon Inc I`ve filled tens of thousands 
of tubes Manufactured thousands of rife tubes (all 
guaranteed by the way) Numerous Civic and Public art 
projects Manufactured tha 1st, so called, super tube in 
5/98 (described by my customer as a Sludge Hammer)

I mention these credits because i hesitate to become involved 
in any discussion involving creditability.

What id like to do is clear up some misconceptions about tube 
manufacture.(And if any of you would like any further info call 
me at 505 2656366, I`d rather talk on the phone as opposed to 
this machine.


Is`t a properly filled tube isn`t rocket science, There are a 
few critacle moments though. A operator experience is 
critical B condition of bombarbing and vaccuming 
equipment is as well;


If a tube is prorerly broughup to temperature and evacuated of 
all impurities filled with the proper amount of gas, then there 
is no need for "conditioning" or as its called in the 
illuminated sign industry Aging-in.

Its that simple,Here`s where the pitfalls come in though. 
---Insufficent heating of the tube(dosen`t remove all the 
impurities) --- " vaccuming ofthe tube( 
" " ). Ex. a weak vaccum pump,a leaky system,Both 
result in back streaming of impuriteis during cool down of 
tube just before filling with gas.

What are the symptoms of an improperly filled tube, Tube 
will take excessively long to Age-in (more than 3-5 minutes ) 
The sooner a tube ages-in the better,(at the manufacturing shop 
not in rife machine) Tube runs hot during aging-in (a sure 
sign of impurities) Tube dosen`t come up to it`s proper 
color (any tube that will not turn from sky blue to argon 
lavender, or remaines orangey,a sure sign of air backstreaming 
into the tube)

Another fine point about tubes manufactured with electrodes, 
they have great advantages, 1 They are critical in the proper 
bombarding and clean up of impurities 2 They allow the 
operator to age the tube at the shop and determine the quality 
of the tube by color , aging time , and operating temperature 
before shippment .The operator can be certain hes sending you a 
good tube.

Getering isn`t necessary, that`s done in the bombarding 
process, any tube that needs a special getering agent to remove 
impurities isn`t processed right in the first place. Operator 
experience ,good maintained equipment and lots of high 
temperatures will remove any impurities from any tube. Proper 
illumination is guaranteed if you know how to evacuate a glass 
tube.

Robert Randazzo Pres.
Absolutely Neon Inc
3903 Centreal Ave
Albuquerque N.M87108


=====================

Thanks for passing on the results of your first tests and clamp info.

>From my experiences, the H-gas burns in the Super Tubes what 
I call a "light dusty rose" color or a pastel pink/mauve. The 
color has been consistent in all of the tubes types I've made 
with a getter and H-gas. The only difference is the intensity 
of the plasma which is partly related of course, to heat. I 
suspect that what you're seeing is not an actual change in 
color, but rather a change in the intensity of the plasma. The 
super tube does require about a half hour of run-in before any 
or all impurities are permanently removed by the getter. You 
can accelerate this process somewhat by heating up the tube 
with a hair blow drier or heat gun.

Yes, the super tube does burn quite cool compared to the 1 in 
straight tube. But either tube, being Pyrex, can take whatever 
kind of heat you can throw at it. One of the big things I 
think you'll find is that the plasma is quite 
stable....compared to other types of straight tubes.

With regards,
Bill

====================

To answer your questions; All the tubes I make, are made from 
Pyrex. The only exception would be the same style tube(s) made 
from Quartz, which I do on special order.

As far as putting your tube in a pizza oven...that's fine, but 
I don't think there'll be much if any change. I test run each 
tube I send out for about 20-30 min and with the accumulated 
time you have on the tube, it's as seasoned as it'll ever get. 
Also, as part of the final processing of the glass, it is 
brought up to 550 deg. C in a kiln and held there for 1.5 
hours. This activates the getter, eliminates any carbon based 
contaminantes, and anneals (stress relieves) the tube.

If you want to try the pizza route, be sure to put the tube in 
a coolish oven and then bring the oven up to whatever temp you 
want and then let everything cool to the point where you can 
comfortably touch it. This way, there is minimum thermal shock 
to the tube, which if too great, can crack or shatter the glass 
due to a too rapid expansion/contraction of the glass.

Look forward to hearing the results of your further tests.

With regards,
Bill

================

I have had Barry Allred make up a new tube for me, which is 
like a coil spring that is about 25 inches long and 3 inches in 
diameter filled with 80% argon and 20 % neon. I talked to him 
today and he told me on the phone that just changing the tube 
in his unit with this one, he picked up about 40 more watts of 
power. He also told me that he feels the tube alot more than 
the bubble tube.. He is shipping one to me this week and one to 
another person on the list for us to try...I will keep 
everybody informed what I find out when I run the tube.

If you don't hear from me anymore, you know I have open a 
portal to the future or to the past...If its to the past, I 
will locate Mr. Rife and find out about his machine. <grin>

Stan

===================

-----------------

Got a coil tube from Allred the other day. It is very 
interesting. It has about 5" on either side of the coil of 1" 
triple thick glass (with thin wall electrodes on the end) and 
almost 3' of 15mm tube to make a coil, which makes the length 
of tubing 4'. The tube is about 25" long and 5" diameter in 
the middle coils.

I worked on it a bit this weekend and found a decent way to 
connect it. Funny I had not read Monroe's post about using 
multiple sleeves/clamps until Monday, after I discovered that 
this tube required them to work properly in my setup.

Barry torched the tube to get it even hotter while "baking" it, 
and this has taken care of the problem of needing conditioning 
since it removes more impurities from the glass. After six 
hours of operation, it is still burning pinkish purple.

The best thing about the tube is the fine beam it produces, 
very coherent at all frequencies. Excellent modulation to the 
lowest frequencies (well, as low as the 0.5Hz I tried it).

Unlike any other tube I have tried, the SWR gets worse when I 
use Kinnaman pulsing. Without pulsing, I can get SWRs to 1.5 - 
1.75 but with pulsing it goes 1.75 - 2.0 (at about 120W on high 
power on black face palomar). Although the SWR is rather high 
(due to the multiple clamps needed to couple it), all 
components are very cool. The tube gets hottest in the coil 
and stays cool on the clamps. Even so, the coil can be touched 
immediately after running a long (2 hr) session. Too hot to 
leave the hand on it long, but won't burn you.

With the wrapping method described below, the beam looks great 
at all frequencies, coherent and pearl-free. I tried a number 
of copper collar setups, using 1.5, 2, and 3" collars in 
various combinations with and without conduit clamps, but the 
collars led to pearls at freqs in the 1000-1500Hz range, even 
though SWR was 1.4-1.5. Unlike any other wrapping technique I 
have used in the past, the tube will sometimes light without 
tuning with the method below.

Even though I am running with relatively high SWRs, I can now 
touch the keypad of the Kinnaman without it going whacky. It 
frequently does when using Allred bubble tubes, even at low 
SWRs (1.2-1.3), so maybe this is an indication that the coil is 
not beaming me with as much power. I can touch the Kinnaman 
all day long without a problem when there's a small tube in the 
system, so maybe this is only transmitting as much energy as a 
small tube.

I have not yet used it enough to determine its effectiveness in 
treating illness. A (rather large) friend was sitting in on a 
session yesterday and felt 2128 strongly in the colon, even 
after being exposed to the frequency a great deal in the past 
couple of months and never hitting on it. Lasted over 5 
minutes. Could have been a fluke infection since I suspect she 
has them (rifing for warts), but whatever it is, it may 
indicate good penetration in this case. There were also a good 
number of other hits in the session from her, even though she 
rarely feels frequencies. Other person's hits in session were 
typical of high pressure bubble tube.

Still a lot more testing to do with it. Here's the way I have 
it wrapped now. It will surely change in the near future as I 
experiment more, but it seems to work fine now.



Draft Wrapping technique:

Mount 2 #1 conduit holders on board so that they will be 1-2" 
from where tube goes from 1" thick glass down to 15mm of coil. 

Install 20-22" heat shrink on 5/16" wide grounding braid (RS 
thin grounding braid may work, I have not tried it.)

Attach 1/4" #12 lugs to 28" braid on one end and lug other end 
for balun for leads.

Attach 30" 14-18 gauge solid wire to 1/4" lug for wrap.

Attach 30" wrap and 28" lead to one conduit holder and 28" lead 
to other. On side where wrap is attached, spiral braided lead 
around tube to end, ziptying over the electrode. This is 
considered the "long" side of the tube. The side without wrap, 
where the lead lug is merely bolted down, is considered the 
"short" side. 

On the long side, install 1" pipe clamp over spiraled braid 
about an inch from where the tube diameter gets smaller going 
toward electrode. (You don't want to clamp on the 15mm or 
where it changes diameter since it is standard thickness and 
not as strong. You only want clamps (or conduit holder or 
copper sleeves) over the 1" diam triple thick glass.) 

On the short side, install 1" pipe clamp to hold down braided 
lead, but don't spiral it around the tube. Merly clamp it down 
in a straight line a couple of inches from the conduit holder, 
before the diam decrease as it goes towards the electrode.

Run the wrap wire through the coil (off center) to near the 
other conduit holder and wrap a single turn around the 1" glass 
about 1/2" from the holder. Run back through the coil (off to 
the other side of center) and wrap it over the other wire near 
the conduit holder. It can also be tucked in under the conduit 
holder or run through to be held under pipe clamp on that side. 
See what works best. The distance of the pipe clamps from the 
conduit holders can also be adjusted to tune it better. The 
wire sides running through the center can be twisted once or 
more to see if that helps. I got lower SWRs but it was very 
touchy to tune when I crossed the wrap wire sides.

====================

I recieved the coil tube from Barry. One Kick Butt tube!!! I 
put about 6 turns of #22 wire on each end. {Ground} Using a 
1/8" wielding rod though the center { positive }. " One of 
the dream things " Fired that sucker up at 27.125 Mhz with 2127 
modulation. I had smoke come from my O-scope. RF burns when 
toching the pulser { removing the earth ground fixed this } and 
had to disconnect the speaker in the Hamm radio to keep from 
busting my ears... Needless to say I am impressed. The tube 
was almost fully lit with some peals. { "K" setting on the MFJ 
} I have not hads time to do wrap test with it and I am not 
able to use it for R/R until I do. Oh it also knocked my 
wife's Video game off line upstairs. { scrambled the picture on 
the TV } I just told her it was your fault. Grin Effects. 
Peggy felt it in her sinus passages.

=================


Got a coil tube from Allred the other day. It is very 
interesting. It has about 5" on either side of the coil of 1" 
triple thick glass (with thin wall electrodes on the end) and 
almost 3' of 15mm tube to make a coil, which makes the length 
of tubing 4'. The tube is about 25" long and 5" diameter in 
the middle coils.

I worked on it a bit this weekend and found a decent way to 
connect it. Funny I had not read Monroe's post about using 
multiple sleeves/clamps until Monday, after I discovered that 
this tube required them to work properly in my setup.

Barry torched the tube to get it even hotter while "baking" it, 
and this has taken care of the problem of needing conditioning 
since it removes more impurities from the glass. After six 
hours of operation, it is still burning pinkish purple.

The best thing about the tube is the fine beam it produces, 
very coherent at all frequencies. Excellent modulation to the 
lowest frequencies (well, as low as the 0.5Hz I tried it).

(Sidenote: Has anyone else noticed that a Kinnaman will not 
modulate at a frequency less than the pulsing rate?)

Unlike any other tube I have tried, the SWR gets worse when I 
use Kinnaman pulsing in this initial cut at connecting the tube. 
Without pulsing, I can get SWRs to 1.5 - 
1.75 but with pulsing it goes 1.75 - 2.0 (at about 120W on high 
power on black face palomar). Although the SWR is rather high 
(due to the multiple clamps needed to couple it), all 
components are very cool. The tube gets hottest in the coil 
and stays cool on the clamps. Even so, the coil can be touched 
immediately after running a long (2 hr) session. Too hot to 
leave the hand on it long, but won't burn you.

With the wrapping method described below, the beam looks great 
at all frequencies, coherent and pearl-free. I tried a number 
of copper collar setups, using 1.5, 2, and 3" collars in 
various combinations with and without conduit clamps, but the 
collars led to pearls at freqs in the 1000-1500Hz range, even 
though SWR was 1.4-1.5. Unlike any other wrapping technique I 
have used in the past, the tube will sometimes light without 
tuning with the method below.

Even though I am running with relatively high SWRs, I can now 
touch the keypad of the Kinnaman without it going whacky. It 
frequently does when using Allred bubble tubes, even at low 
SWRs (1.2-1.3), so maybe this is an indication that the coil is 
not beaming me with as much power. I can touch the Kinnaman 
all day long without a problem when there's a small tube in the 
system, so maybe this is only transmitting as much energy as a 
small tube.

I have not yet used it enough to determine its effectiveness in 
treating illness. A (rather large) friend was sitting in on a 
session yesterday and felt 2128 strongly in the colon, even 
after being exposed to the frequency a great deal in the past 
couple of months and never hitting on it. Lasted over 5 
minutes. Could have been a fluke infection since I suspect she 
has them (rifing for warts as well as followup for skin cancer
that resolved with Skin Answer), but whatever it 
is, it may indicate good penetration in this case. There were 
also a good number of other hits in the session from her, even 
though she rarely feels frequencies.

Still a lot more testing to do with it. Here's the way I have 
it wrapped now. It will surely change in the near future as I 
experiment more, but it seems to work fine now.




Draft Wrapping technique:

Mount 2 #1 conduit holders on board so that they will be 1-2" 
from where tube goes from 1" diam glass down to 15mm of coil. 

Install 20-22" heat shrink on 28" of 5/16" wide grounding braid (RS 
thin grounding braid may work, I have not tried it.) Leave end
of braid near 1/4" lugged end bare since this is what will come
in contact with the tube.

Attach 1/4" lugs to 28" braids on one end and lug other end 
for balun to make leads.

Attach 30" 14-18 gauge solid wire to 1/4" lug for wrap. (BTW, the
cheapest bare wrap wire is found with picture hanging supplies.)

Attach 30" wrap and 28" lead to one conduit holder and 28" lead to
other. On side where wrap is attached, spiral braided lead around
tube to end, ziptying over the electrode. This is considered the
"long" side of the tube. The side without wrap, where the lead
lug without wraooing is merely bolted down, is considered the
"short" side.

On the long side, install 1" pipe clamp over spiraled braid 
about an inch from where the tube diameter gets smaller going 
toward electrode. (You don't want to clamp on the 15mm or 
where it changes diameter since it is standard thickness and 
not as strong. You only want clamps (or conduit holder or 
copper sleeves) over the 1" diam triple thick glass.) 

On the short side, install 1" pipe clamp to hold down braided 
lead, but don't spiral it around the tube. Merly clamp it down 
in a straight line a couple of inches from the conduit holder, 
before the diam decrease as it goes towards the electrode.

Run the wrap wire through the coil (off center) to near the 
other conduit holder and wrap a single turn around the 1" glass 
about 1/2" from the holder. Run back through the coil (off to 
the other side of center) and wrap it over the start of the wire near 
the conduit holder. It can also be tucked in under the conduit 
holder or run through to be held under pipe clamp on that side. 
See what works best. The distance of the pipe clamps from the 
conduit holders can be adjusted to tune it better. The 
wire sides running through the center can be twisted once or 
more to see if that helps. I got lower SWRs but it was very 
touchy to tune when I crossed the wrap wire. 

I should have pictures of this up in the Rife pictures
section of my web page soon, as well as pictures of the Supertube
and various others.

turf

=========================

I recently began some tests based upon work originally 
pioneered by Jeff Morency. Jeff was testing the voltage and 
wave form across the tube by conecting his oscilloscope to a 
couple of 680,000 ohm resistors in series with each of the 
output terminals of the 912 balun.

I took Jeff's idea and tried using a variety of tubes to see 
what occurs with different wrapping methods. I haven't gotten 
to re wrapping the tubes yet as I am still working with a 
phenomena I found in testing the different tubes.

A few findings- 

The larger the volume and gas pressure of the tube: 
1. the higher the voltage across the tube.

2.The higher the voltage of the leading edge voltage spike. 

3. The wider the range of audio frequencies in which the 
voltage spike is present. 

4. The more coherent the pulse envelope regardless of audio 
frequency.

5. The more consistent in size the RF envelope regardless of 
audio frequency.

6. The more harmonics evident in the envelope. ( don't know 
about spectrum as don't have a spectral analyzer)


In other words a large volume high pressure tube produces a 
better wave form and higher voltage than a lower volume, lower 
pressure tube. 

I haven't finished testing this as I need a couple of new 
resistors. The 680,000 are OK for most tubes, but the Bill Cheb 
super tubes go off scale ( 500V ) on my scope and I need more 
resistance to get the scope back into a calibrated range. A 
curiosity is that the Russian tube with External Electrodes I 
have produced some amazing off scale voltages and harmonics on 
the scope. The pulse was very irregular and full of harmonic 
spikes. Don Tunney has the Russain Phanotron so I didn't get to 
test this. 

With 150 watts RF, Voltages of the tubes ran from a few hundred 
volts to an estimated 1000+. Spikes might run to double or 
triple that. The leading edge spike was present in all tubes 
from about 300 to 4000Hz. The spike would drop off above and 
below that. Only the large super tubes produced prominent 
spikes at very low frequencies and on up to 10,000 Hz.

Many people have noted the distortion that occurs at very low 
frequencies in the transmitted pulse. The duty cycle seems to 
go lengthen to over 90% and the wave form distorts. This 
apparently is due more to the tube than the CB. The large super 
tubes do no show this type of effect. The pulse stays nice and 
well formed and the duty cycle changes some, but does not 
become overly long. 

Just beginning to look at all of this, but if others on the 
list have multiple tubes, they might give this a try and let us 
know what they find out.

Jim 

===================



>> The larger the volume and gas pressure of the tube:
>> 1. the higher the voltage across the tube.
>>

Measuring the voltage across the tube is difficult and subject 
to many errors because of the large RF inductive field present 
in the loop composed of balun and tube. At this point I have 
not seen a significant difference between tubes having similar 
gases and pressures.

>> 2.The higher the voltage of the leading edge voltage spike.
>>

The relative amplitude of the leading edge light spike appears 
to correlate strongly with the type of gas used, and to a 
lesser extent with pressure. Of possibly greater importance, 
the risetime of the leading pulse does appear to correspond 
with the type of gas used, with argon and xenon showing a 
considerably faster leading edge than krypton, neon and various 
argon/xx blends. Unfortunately my detector has poor response 
to the helium discharge of a phanotron, so am unable to comment 
helium as yet. Interestingly, xenon appears to deliver 
multiple fast-rise pulses at the first 10-12 uS of the pulse, 
generating new, inharmonic frequencies in the process. It also 
appears that smaller tubes having a discharge length of only 
about 10" have proportionately higher, faster risetime leading 
edge pulses, provided they are wrapped in a manner suggested by 
Ron Wormus. This was, BTW, the most successful tube that Ron 
had used on various protozoa. A tube of this type (100% Ar, 8 
mm) has become the "standard" by which I judge the light pulses 
from the rest.

>> 3. The wider the range of audio frequencies in which the voltage spike
is
>> present.
>>

The clear leader here has to be xenon with its multiple leading 
edge pulses generating a very wide spectrum. They seem 
difficult to ignite with moderate power levels at pressures 
above 5 mm, however.

>> 4. The more coherent the pulse envelope regardless of audio frequency.
>>

I'm not sure what "coherent" means here. Does this refer to 
the visual diameter of the beam? Without at doubt, the heavier 
gases like krypton and xenon provide the smallest diameter 
beams I've seen yet, possibly only about 1/8" diam., especially 
when modulated with audio bursts having a duty cycle of 15 to 
20 percent.


>> 5. The more consistent in size the RF envelope regardless of audio
frequency.
>>

>> 6. The more harmonics evident in the envelope. ( don't know about
spectrum


We have to be careful to differentiate between audio modulation 
sideband products and RF harmonic content. Any spectrum 
referred to must also be defined in terms of whether it is 
detected as a series RF current through the tube, a magnetic 
(inductive) field pickup, or sampled with an electric field 
probe. Then there's also the spectrum of the light output, 
which is unique in itself.

>> as don't have a spectral analyzer)
>>
>> In other words a large volume high pressure tube produces a better wave
form
>> and higher voltage than a lower volume, lower pressure tube.
>> <snip>
>

That may be true; however, the larger tubes require coupling 
methods that require greater capacitance and inductance, thus 
possibly limiting the high frequency characteristics associated 
with the desired pulse. I have seen no evidence as yet to 
support the idea that larger tubes are more effective 
biologically; to the contrary, the smaller tubes and the 
phanotron-style tubes appear to be the most consistent in this 
regard. Rife most certainly would have experimented with 
various linear (Geissler-type) tube styles, but I've seen no 
evidence that any were used by either him or Crane in their 
successful tests, clinical trials or manufactured devices. >

===========================

Silvered ( Mirrored ) Quartz Tube

The following is part one of two parts. The first deals
with silvering a 23 Quartz tube for use by a CB or Mirage
Radio for RF Plasma Therapy. 2 1/8 x 19 1/4 of the
circumference of a 23 Quartz was mirrored. Using a razor;
7/16 of this was separated from the whole by an 1/8 to 3/16
gap of the silvering removed. This provides two conductors
for the 912 Balun. #14 stranded wire is then Zip tied to
each conductor for connection to the Balun. The following
readings where observed.

Radio used: Mirage 2950
Mode: AM
Carrier Frequency: 27.125
Modulation: 2724
Tuner Switch set at ( K ) MFJ 949-E
SWR: 1.28
Watts: 145
Reflected: 2
Run Time: 5 minutes constant, no pulsing
Effects on silvering. Slight dulling of inter surface. Still intact

Temperature range of tube during operation: 126 to 158
degrees F. Tube lit very easy. After this test was
completed; the tube was checked for pulsing capabilities.
Pulsing the modulation ( FG ) was not a problem. In order
to pulse the Carrier the SWR was raised to 1.3. The
following reading where observed. Tuner switch set at ( K )
Watts: 125 SWR: 1.3 Reflective: 2

A higher excitation rate ( brilliance ) of the tube was
observed at a Tuner setting of ( L ) Watts: 145 SWR: 2.5
Reflective: 26 Not recommended for long run times.

How to make the Silvering solutions can be found at the following
website:

http://www.palis.com/FORMULAS.HTM

Subject #17.MIRRORS - SILVERING AND RE-SILVERING

The best method I have found in the last 2 weeks of
silvering, messing up and re- silvering is as follows.

1. Cut a piece of 30 x 1 PVC in half. Cap both ends. I
sealed mine by building a bridge with Silicone chalking an
allowing over night drying 24 of this is isolated by use of
a Rope chalking dam pressed into the PVC. I have different
size tubes so the PVC will work with all of them this way.
*** Wear Latex or Rubber gloves at all times. The oil from
the skin will keep the Silver from adhering. The silver
solutions will cause blacking of the skin ( Oxidation ) on
contact.

2. The Quartz tube is cleaned by Acetone to remove all oil,
cleaned with a Windex type window cleaner, then rinsed in
distilled water. Do not dry of the tube completely..

3. Cut two pieces of Rope chalking ( about 2 ) are applied
to each end of the PVC pipe to hold it steady. Cut 4-1
pieces, press two together to make about thick. This is
applied to the inside of the PVC so as to be 1 from each end
of the Quartz tube. The quartz tube is then pressed into
this chalking. This holds the tube off the bottom and keeps
it from floating after the solutions are poured in. The
tube does not have to heated as indicated by the website
instructions. I found it to work just as well at Room Temp.

4. I keep the solutions in 1 gallon Tinted glass jars.
Before mixing I place them in Hot water from the house water
heater. When warmed, 4 oz of each is place into a graduated
Fruit jar for ease of measurement and mixing. You must do
this as quickly as possible. Once stirred a few times; it
is poured directly into PVC tube and allowed to sit for 30
minutes.

5. The solution is removed from the PVC by a vacuum bottle.
This avoids splashing! Remove the Tube carefully. Rinse (
Small squeeze bottle ) with Distilled water. Do not Dry!!!
Lean against something upright while you clean out the PVC.
Wash out with Tap water and paper towel dry. Rinse with
distilled water. Do not dry.

6. Place the Quartz back in the PVC. Use the same location
as before. Before pouring the new solution in, sit a small
weight on top of the tube. The chalk may not stick well
enough to hold it down. Repeat the above procedure to apply
another coat of silver onto the tube.

7. Remove the tube and rinse with distilled water. Allow
to dry over night. Additional coats can be applied. I only
use two coats at this time. Application of additional coats
can result in pealing of the first coats. You will then
need to start over again. User Preference.

8. The tube, after drying, is now ready for use. If you
wish to use as both conductors simply scrape a line down
though the center or measure off to . Scrape at least 1/8
clearance between each conductor. You can also leave As Is
and use a wire down the opposite side of the tube. I prefer
separation. I removed about 2 of silver from each end of
the tube with a weak solution of Nitric Acid and distilled
water. This is saved for recycling. This can also be used
to cleanly remove all the silver from the tube if you decide
you dont wish to use it. I do not recommend using it for
making the stripping for conductors. You will find the
coating fairly durable but easily scratched. It can now be
touched by hand with out damage occurring. The #14 stranded
wire is spread out a small amount to increase contact; then
and Zip tied directly to the silver strips. I use at least
two Ties per wire. Be careful not to move the wire while
Zip Tying, as it can scratch the silver.

*** Future plans involve applying a conductive coat ( NoLoc
by Idea ) to the wire before tying off to eliminate any
oxidation of the connection. Exposed tube will be tapped
and a High Temperature paint applied. Such as Automotive
Manifold Paint which has a temp rating 1200 degrees. This
will be done when the this type coating is deemed Best for
the application of RF Plasma Therapy. Once the solution and
PVC is made and set up this is a very quick and easy
operation. I think the tube operation makes it worth the
trouble. It is still to soon to tell if the benefits from
tube have increased, stayed the same or lessened.



Silvered Quartz Tube Part 2

The following is observations of a 23 Quartz tube with a 2
radio input. One radio is a Mirage 2950 the other a Uniden
CB. The CB was modified per Jim Bares original Manual. In
order to input 2 radio signals at one time the tube had a
silver coating of 2 1/8 by 19 . This is described in part
one. This was divided into 4 parts. Ranging in width of to
7/16. A clearance of 1/8 to in between strips. The Mirage
was attached by way of #14 wire to the 12 and 6 O-Clock
positions. The CB to 2 and 4 O-Clock positions. No pulsing
was used. The modulation of each radio set at 1000 Hz.
Both Radios have a Carrier 27.125 MHz The following reading
where observed. Mirage CB Watts 90 130 SWR 1.4 1.51 Reflect
3 5 A Lodestar frequency counter indicated 2 things would
change the output frequency. 1. Adjustment of ether tuner.
2. Adjustment of modulation to ether radio. 3. Carrier
adjustment of Mirage.

Pictures of the Tube, O-Scope and Frequency counter will be
set up on Brains Site in the near future. There is no doubt
in my mind two frequency can be input into a single tube
with no electrodes now. I encourage others to view the
pictures, make there own conclusions. Comments welcome.

Johnny Burton

==============

An impression based on testing two tubes in this manner is that 
the characteristics of the leading edge pulses are not overly 
different, whether using the tube's internal electrodes or 1" 
wide collars, but that's subject to change. For example, using 
a small (25 mm X 15") argon tube I recorded a light-spike 
risetime of 1.5 uS and a pulse width of 4.5 uS for the terminal 
configuration, and 1.0 uS and 4.0 uS for the collar 
configuration. There was some difference in relative pulse 
height, the terminals creating a pulse approx. 7 times the 
amplitude of the trailing portion of the pulse, and the collars 
produced nearly double this value (12X). Various wrapping 
methods and collar configurations are to be looked at in tests 
planned for the rest of the week on both argon and neon tubes 
that are otherwise physically identical.

The virtue in wrapping the tube (as opposed to merely using 
collars) appears to be associated with the distributed 
inductance of the wrap, in some cases "encouraging" a 
well-formed beam, especially in the case of quartz tubes that 
are known to be stubborn, accumulating an internal charge. 
More importantly, this inductance of the wrap, if well chosen, 
can serve to offset or "match" the inherent capacitive 
reactance of the tube, resulting in easier, broader loading 
characteristics and lower SWR readings. When everything comes 
together, the wrap on the tube will be such that the initial 
light pulse is optimum at or near a point of minimum SWR that 
should appear "broad." In general, this is not the case, and 
the visual appearance of the tube will provide no clue whatever 
as to the character of the leading pulse. My guess is that 
mosst systems are simply tuned for minimum SWR and in so doing 
may miss the "sweet spot" where the light spike rises up, and 
this can be a factor approaching 20 from my measurements. As 
an example, one individual had very good "critter" results from 
a specific tube and wrapping method that he had kept careful 
records of. When I made a replica of this tube and wrap, I 
found it to exhibit the characteristic of having an optimized 
light pulse and minimum SWR simultaneously. This wrap 
configuration was fed in the middle (dipole-style), rather than 
at the ends as is often done.

Also I have found that this pulse can be improved by using a 
narrower modulation envelope, so that be reducing the square 
wave from a 50% duty cycle to between 10 and 20% is helpful 
(and probably easier on the linear as well).

I'll assume here that the active feature of the tube has 
nothing whatever to do with the light that it produces. The 
light spike, however, is seen to some degree (coincident) in 
the electric field envelope, and thus either the RF harmonic 
content may be influenced to some manner by this "spike," or 
the biologic effect may be simply enhanced by having this 
initial pulse present. The intense spike is not seen in the 
series RF current delivered to the tube. At the present time, 
I'm not convinced that the production of high order harmonics 
depends on this spike, since the its time characteristics do 
not relate to the creation of frequencies beyond about 10 MHz 
in any case.

It is known that ionized noble gases have the capability of 
generating soliton waves in response to narrow pulse 
excitation, and the creation and optimizing of this initial 
light pulse may indicate the presence of this phenomena in the 
plasma. What effect the creation of such waves has is unknown.

Some gases and gas combinations appear to produce multiple 
light spikes whose spacing can be effected by tuning settings. 
These tubes do in fact generate new frequencies (broadband 
radiation) based on this pulse separation. Again, the presence 
of this feature has an unknown effect.

Since Rife used "phanotron" style tubes, one has to speculate 
that he found the characteristics of such tubes and the use of 
helium gas to be important in generating the desired emanation; 
most certainly he must have experimented with linear tubes 
having many different gases, pressures, with and without 
electrodes, etc., but found them to be less effective. 
Unfortunately, helium has a spectral output that is not favored 
by my PIN diode detector and I'm unable to accurately measure 
it's optical characteristics, but I suspect it's very fast, and 
without the need for a specialized wrap, possibly very 
consistent.

If biologic effect is dependant on these kinds of 
characteristics, there's little wonder that experimenters find 
their systems performing erratically, or not at all. We need 
to discover the key to obtaining consistent and predictable 
results, and that may still be a ways off.

--Rog

========================

<< It seems that some tubes are a bit obstinate, even though
they look as though they should work just fine >>

In my experience, this is mostly due to variations in gas
pressure.... it doesn't take more than a few Torr one way
or another to make a major difference in the electrical
characteristics of the plasma... as most neon shops
equipment is older and not well calibrated since it really
doesn't matter all that much for run of the mill neon work
(the general ballpark is good enough). Also, different
gasses have significanly different properties as regards
heat production and ignition charactoristics, impurities
also play a part.

===================



This is a research project only it is not ready for use in
the field yet.

Theories: I have developed over the last few weeks a
theorie how the rife tube works In simplified terms, each
reare gas has its spectral lines, lets call them little
bells if you like, some gases have more bells then others
and they ring at different frequencies, so the more bells I
can ring the louder the noise, call it effect if you like.
To prove or disprove I set up this little test.

The System: The Bare/Rife system was build as per manual.
The Tom Young modification was also made. Setting and
operations as per manual. During the test the system run on
100 to 150 watts and SWR of 1 to 1.2 Ocilloscope output as
normal, square wave, and modulation.


The Tube I had two special tubes made. A Pyrex tube of 25
mm X 660 mm, one end sealed off and on the other end a glass
valve. No inside electrodes. With these tubes I can change
very quickly gases and pressures. There are also two coils
100 mm long , 12mm gaps, 2.5 mm bronze wire, which slide
onto either end of the tube, when tube is lit , I slide
Coils closer together or further appart for lowest SRW.

First Test The tube was filled with equal parts of Argon,
Helium and Neon at 10 Microns The tube lit extremely easy.
Color: pinkish. Med. Linear set 150 watts . SWR 1.1.
There was a very strong beam felt in the chest region. A
friend present at the time confirmed this very strongly.
Test duration 10 minutes for safety reasons.

Second Test The tube was filled with equal parts of
Argon,Helium,Neon,Krypton and Xenon at 10 Microns. Again
the tube lit very easy, Color: pinkish with a tough of
blue, very bright. Power 130 watts SWR 1 There was a
extremely strong beam feeling in the head causing
unmentionable things in the head. Test duration 10 minutes
for safety reasons. I would estimate that the beam was
about a 100 times stronger than normal. How I came to this
conclusion: You know how you feel after a long exposure on
the normal system, with this set up you feel like that after
a few minutes. Modulating frequencies 400Hz to 2200Hz beam
present over the whole range.

Conclusion A time for more research. Could here the answer
lay, way some tubes work not so well. What combinations of
gases would be ideal. Here I have put 5 gases together what
would be the result to put 20 selected gases together.
There are endless gas mixtures and strength possible. Have
we here a scalar at work? Hopefully someone can repeat the
test and share the info to all

Klaus

====================

I have been conducting experiments with different RF levels, 
specifically 5 and 10 on my field strength meter (MONARCH Model 
FSI-1).

The tuning meter scale is from 0 to 10 with increments of 1. 
There is a phone jack in the back that can used with ear phones 
to listen to the signal. Recent postings of Rife usng ear 
phones indicates he may have been listening to the field 
strength tuning aspect.

Based on volunteer response, using controlled RF, appears to 
increase symptomatic response and effect. 

Volunteer position varies with some R/B devices as to the RF.

It may be that the effective difference between R/B devices is 
the RF Factor.

Reports that large bodied persons may require increased power 
to achieve adequate penetration or in some cases, having them 
sit between two devices to achieve increased penetration, or 
having one expose both sides of their body to improve 
effectiveness, may be achieved by controlling the RF Factor. 

So far, 5 on the meter has been the norm. 10 on the meter is 
the upper limit. Previous RF levels were zero (0).

A reviewed of posted statements on this subject was conducted. 
Don tunney reported his findings that RF was a contributing 
factor and that some may not agree regarding RF. 

Reviewing Monroe's use of a 4 foot vertical tube and his report 
of increased "feelings", contribute to the RF factor. The 
vertical wire to the top of the tube is actually an antenna 
which increases RF. 

The signal from the wire, also contains the frequencey placed 
on the carrier wave. 

Depending upon the component layout, grounding of components, 
and length of wires to the tube, tube wrapping, the RF can vary 
considerably.

So far, it appears that the RF output is not dependant upon the 
Frequency output, but on the component layout and setup..

The type of tube contributes to the RF factor. 

Vertical tubes, primarily because of the vertical wire setup 
exhibit increased RF.. 

Bubble tubes appear to exhibit increased RF regardless of the 
tube wire wrap.

The tube wire wrap definitely effects increased RF output.

Present experiments use a U tube with wires that extend from 1 
inch above electrodes in the tube to within 1/2 inch of each 
other at the apex of the tube. MFJ tuner meter readings were 
set for 50 to 70 watts. SWR was set to 1.8 for all units. SWR, 
wattage, levels were used to to control basic settings. 

The RF factor is easily determined for any R/B devices using a 
"Field Strength" meter. An RF map should be determined prior to 
volunteer positioning. RF measurements at zero (0), 5, and 10 
should be predetermined. Care must be taken isolate oneself 
from the field strength meter, because your body acts as a 
receiving antenna and will effect the readings.. 

All information is based on a small population of experimental 
and preliminary results. Extended experiments are required to 
statistically confirm these results. 

Volunteer responses, both feelings and symptomatic should be 
noted with respect to initial exposure and elapsed time. 

Radio Shack sells a low cost SWR and Field strength meter for 
about $20, which can be used to conduct such experiments. Paul

==========================

I have been working a bit with one of Bill Chebs' H gas, high pressure ,
super tubes , with an internal getter. In trying to get it to work better, I
slipped the two sleeves I was using to one end of the tube.One sleeve about
2" from the end of the tube with the getter, and the other placed so that
there was a gap of about 3" between the sleeves.

When the tube was fired up the area lit up brightly as expected between the
clamps. But what was unexpected was that a thin beam of compressed plasma
extended itself to the opposite end of the tube. Almost no wave was felt
coming off the sides of the tube. But when I stood at the end of the tube
opposite the clamps, a Very (!) intense focused beam could be felt. 

May have a way to focus the beam using this method. I do not know if this
will work on other tubes, or tubes without an internal getter.
Jim Bare

============================

> Mercury is an offensive word it seems. It has been, and probably still is
> used as an ignitor in gas filled tubes. Although we now know mercury is
> toxic, explain how it can have an adverse effect 'in the tube'!

The few tubes that I have tested which contain Mercury do not
have the leading edge "light spike" which is commonly seen with
non-Mercury type tubes.  I seem to recall posts from those who
had tried them that Mercury containing tubes did not have the
same effect as a "standard" Argon or AR/Ne tube.  Needless to
say, if you have a tube containing Mercury, you had better have
some UV protection for yourself.
Ralph

======================

>>I was surprised that it registered pretty low perpendicular to my horizontal tube but increased at angles to it being highest off the ends of the tube, in my setup anyway.  I had forgotten about the 60Hz weighting.  Was this still a valid measurement?

>Valid for what purpose?  However what you found with the field increasing off the end of the tube, that would be a valid comparative measurement within your particular system.  I have found the same comparative e-field increase coming off the ends of the tubes, both with RB and EM systems.

The general idea of a balanced transmission line system, as in the BR system, is to have the fields cancel each other out except within the load or in this case the plasma.  In an ideal system the voltage at the end of each wire of the transmission line are exactly equal in amplitude, but exactly 180 degrees out of phase with respect to each other.  In this imperfect system, the voltage amplitudes are not equal and the phase relationship between the voltages at the plasma tube probably is not exactly 180 degrees.  Since there are two opposing E-fields, each strongest at its respective end of the plasma tube, why should anyone be surprised to discover that the E-field measurement is lowest in the vicinity of being equidistant from both plasma tube ends?

Domenic

=====================



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